it is 22 lb/ft + 1/4 turn + 1/4 turn.

if it is a NEW bolt, it is 22 lb/ft + 1/4 turn + 1/4 + ANOTHER 1/4 turn.

22 ft/lb is not enough for cylinder head bolts...the oil drain bolt is 29 ft/lb already.

the wheel bolts are 75 ft/lb (or 80?)...i'm guessing the cylinder head bolt should be more than 80 ft/lb.

what is the spec? NO CLUE.

when i torqued my cylinder head bolts...after the two 1/4 turns, the torque wrench was registering 105 ft/lb.

 

Well it is what it is. If you followed the directions correctly ,no problem.
Total torque should be an easy question to a Honda mech. Ask one if you can.

 

already asked 2, both with s2k's.

no spec #.

that's why i said to you, if you know that spec...please do enlighten.

 

NO SPEC. Start with lightly oiled bolt threads, and oil between the bolt head and the washer.

Torque REAL slow to 22ft-lbs. Even this should be done 3 times in sequence. 22,22,22. That's your starting point to tighten the bolts.

If you went 22 + 1/4 turn + 1/4 turn, you're fine. 1 addl 1/4 turn for a new head bolt.

There is absolutely no reason to retorque the head. If the head gasket is leaking, then the install is at fault.

Check the spark plugs and look for unusal deposits from coolant detonation.

 

Thanks Billman.

what is your opinion on the rate of coolant loss, MAX to MIN in about 2 months.

could it just be water burning off? when my mechanic checked pressure through the radiator cap, he did top off with water...it held the pressure.

i topped off with coolant...i will see what happens in the next couple of weeks.

 

The s2k is very difficult to purge all the air after a head gasket install, it may have just been low.

I'd say give it two weeks. The level should not move now.

 

Billman250 Posted on Mar 10 2007, 05:22 AM

The coolant in my engine was changed twice within a short period of time.
Once because it was time to flush, a month after that because the radiator had a leak. (hit by a stone)

Both times it took about 1-2 weeks (depending on the miles you drive) for the coolant level to settle and stay steady.
That was without removing the head... just a coolant flush.

 

Another thing to check ... I had coolant leaking very slowly from the top of the holding tank. The tank was not sitting correctly causing the hood to put pressure on the tcoolant tank top where the tube connects. Coolant slowly seeped out as the tank was not sealing properly.

 

But you would be able to see coolant "marks" on the tank correct? since it is a clear (almost white) tank.

In any event, I've topped off with coolant..and it dropped 1/8 inch and is holding...

i will give it 1-2 weeks and see if it continues to hold.

thanks for all the suggestions.

 

what's the update?