Some BG, i went to a shop 40k mi ago that turned out to be very very shady, they left off bunch of bolts, used NO grease at all, just shady shady place. Had to get the competition service rep on phone to tell them they had the right clutch

I want to know what i need to replace, what could have been the culprit of the cracked disk at the springs so it wont happen again(will get pics).

Now i know i will need to replace the:
Clutch
TO bearing
Pilot bearing

Do i need a new (all this stuff has 40k on it:
FW (or will resurfacing do fine?)
PP

Anything else i am forgetting?

Thanks guys

 

 

Since you already have it apart, visually inspect those parts. If the FW doesnt have burn marks or deep scratches it'll probably be fine to reuse. I think the PP has the same criteria, plus the "fingers" need to not be worn.

 

what is a good indication of finger wear?


Forgot to ask, will the stock clutch hold up to a possible S/C down the line?

 

I think he is talking about the fingers in the middle of the PP they go in a circle around the center

If I remember correctly stock disk with a higher force pp will hold 350whp

Stock clamping force is 1800 and Comp Clutch is 2200 on all of their plates across the board I had an email confirming this straight from CC

Short answer to your q of will it hold depends on your power goals

 

FWIW, the spring holders break a lot on these cars if it's launched, or driven very aggressively.

 

Never EVER launched, or beaten on. Car has perfect compression across the board. I take excellent care of it.

The thing that has me confused is this happened at 20mph in stop n go traffic.

Like i said the shop did a very sketchy job on the install however that shouldnt be reason for it to blow.

No crazy gains maybe just a s/c setup and a nice safety net for whatever breaks as a result lol.

Thanks.

 

It just happens. That small tab of metal is the only thing that keeps the springs in place, and the springs compress every single time you start off, or punch the gas. It's a high fatigue point. As long as the rest of the components don't look beat up, or gouged from the break, you can just change the disk, pilot, and release bearing.

If the pp and fw are smooth looking, just knock the shine off of them with a medium sandpaper.