S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

CRANK PULLEY

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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 02:59 AM
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Default CRANK PULLEY

Will be installing a comptech this weekend and I understand the crank pulley can be a bear. I have tried to get the special tool to remove the crank but have had no luck in getting the tool. Anyone know if I can use a 1/2 impact to get this off or anyone have any ideas to remove the pulley. Any feeback would be great.
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 03:47 AM
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The only way to get an impact wrench on the bolt is to use a 4-6" extension and go under the the support beam that crssses the engine compartment.

The extension reduces the output of the wrench, and you'll be lucky to break it loose. The crank pulley bolt can require 500ft. lbs to loosen, and very few impacts can deliver that kind of power through a socket extension.

You're gonna need the pulley holder.
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 07:26 AM
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Get the right tools.



Crank pulley removal tool
2 - 1/2" breaker bars
2 - 4 foot pipe extension to slide over the breaker bars.
19mm deep socket.

With a buddy....the crank bolt will crack free with out too much effort.

Without the right tools..... it's going to be a bitch...

I would NOT recommend an impact wrench...

Tim
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by SIIK2NR,Mar 30 2006, 01:26 AM
Get the right tools.



Crank pulley removal tool
2 - 1/2" breaker bars
2 - 4 foot pipe extension to slide over the breaker bars.
19mm deep socket.

With a buddy....the crank bolt will crack free with out too much effort.

Without the right tools..... it's going to be a bitch...

I would NOT recommend an impact wrench...

Tim



I used 4 ft long pipe extension to loose it.
It was PITA.
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 05:58 PM
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I only had a 3 foot breaker bar and did it by myself, had to leave the crankpulley tool and bar under the support beam so it would hold in place while I crank the breaker bar....boy I thought I was going to smash my fender in if I used all my strength but luckily that didn't happen....I also got an impact with extension in there but it was no good....
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 07:39 PM
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It took a long breaker bar, the jack extension and three guys hanging on the bar as it bent to break mine loose. They said putting in the fuel pump was harder though.
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 02:16 AM
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I appreciate the input, but so far I have been unable to find this tool anywhere. I live in the northern Virginia area just outside of D.C.-anyone know where I can get this tool. I am waiting on a call from a friend at the local Acura dealer to see if they have it and if I can borrow it, but I'm not holding my breath.
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 02:43 AM
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When I installed my SC, the biggest problem I had was the Crank-Pulley. My suggestion is to get a 3/4" socket with a breaker bar. Here's how I did it.
I Use the 1/2" breaker bar attach it to the "pulley-holder" and hold it in place buy placing the bar underneath the lower support beam. With a 3/4" sock and a 3/4" breaker bar, I attach a cheater bar to get extra toruqe. It losen up fine. You may want to get a sofa pillow to put it on the fender in a direction to which you're pulling towards. It may save your fender if you happen to snap the bar, or bolts etc... If you use the 1/2" breaker bar attaching it to a socket along with a cheater bar, chances are the 1/2" breaker bar will break at the pivoting point. I broke mines, but it was a Craftsman so the replacement was hassle free.

Here's something that you may find useful.
1. You MUST use the "pulley-holder" get one for cheap at (www.amazon.com)
-Search 50mm pulley-holder, cost is around $19.99.
2. Get yourself a 3/4" socket sets with a 3/4" breaker bar (will save you lots of time, hassle, tool breakage and maybe busted knuckles) you can find it for cheap at (www.harborfreight.com)
3. You'll need a Torque-Wrench and BLue Locktite. Comptech didn't say that you'll need it, but you will need it to torque the Crank-Pulley back to spec. (Kragen.com or Sears.com)
4. Make sure you remember how the bolts/nuts are assemble on the blower, getting it wrong will cause your S/C belt to mis-align.
5. Fuel pumps are easy in my case, it's nothing more then taking it apart and assembling it in the same order. it's getting the clips off the cover that was hard.
6. The ESM (Egine Signal Modifier) is MY second hardest part...there's almost no room to moves.

And I highly recommend you get the 7lbs pulley from Comptech while the blower's not on the car. You'll love it. Original boost from Comptech is 5lbs.

I DO NOT recommend buddies pulling the cheater in opposing direction, chance are one of you is weaker then the other and you'll have the see-saw affect. Also it just improve the chances of you hurting each other if the breaker slip/snaps or what not.

Hope this will help, need any help PM me or any of these guys...
Good Luck! and welcome to Boost!
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