Wow, might have to start a campaign here regarding this. Honda F-up!

 

This does suck. When the thrust bearing is installed backwards, pushing the clutch in pulls the engine crankshaft towards the rear thrust washer. When it's dry, it acts as a crankshaft-brake, slowing the engine and even stalling it. The thrust washer is also ramped on the ends, only on the oil groove side. The ramps pick up oil and lube the surface. When backwards, there is no ramp. The thrust washer essentially becomes a scraper, removing oil instead of supplying it.

It may be possible to determine the thrust washer orientation by pulling the oil pan, but I am not optimistic. But I will look into it.

Thrust washer correction requires crankshaft removal, which means engine removal.

 

I'm surprised many engines lasted as long as they did with the bearings installed backward.

 

Had my 2007 since 2009 with 13K on it now 123K. Beat the shit out of it on the dragon a few, maxed it out on the autobahn quite a bit (flew it to Germany), and ran it rough on the Nurburgring. It has served me well but I would have rather it actually blown that had this funky issue.

 

Man this scares me. I have an 07. Sometimes when starting the car the car has kind of a slow or erratic crank. I've been trying to figure it out, and in the service manual if everything with the starter and battery check out then it just says "check for excessive drag on the engine". I hope this isn't an early warning sign of a bad thrust bearing. Subscribing for updates.

 

Billman, will bypassing the clutch interlock solve this even if the thrustwasher was installed backwards? And please do keep us posted if theres a way to confirm correct installation.

 

Bypassing the clutch switch will always help, as it prevents any crankshaft rearward pressure during engine startup.

BE WARNED if you are not careful, the car can be started in gear and take off at 2000rpm. So if you do the bypass, be mindful.

 

if the thrust washer was installed backwards, wouldnt it be evident rather quickly as in within a couple thousand miles? this is very interesting...

 

Driver input plays a big role in this, especially under boost conditions. If your shift timing is not proper (you apply pressure to the clutch pedal while there is throttle input) it will accelerate the wear. It is also accelerated with a heavier pp, when coupled with improper operating technique.

The two combined driving forces cause the most wear, as does dry morning starts.

 

16k in this case,was in another thread from the OP but cant find it !!
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/car-talk...971735/page29/