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This is crazy, but Oil Burn? The Story of conquering phantoms.

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This is crazy, but Oil Burn? The Story of conquering phantoms.

 
Old 11-20-2018, 07:37 AM
  #21  
 
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Originally Posted by Billman250 View Post
Bump.

Had a customer report that his oil cap gasket fixed his oil consumption.

Any seal that affects crankcase pressure can affect the rings ability to seal.

-oil cap
-pcv valve
-dipstick orings
Billman, thanks again! Knowledge base is amazing.
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Old 11-20-2018, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Deckoz View Post
Im sorry, it was no one in this thread. I removed all my content from the forum.

But the gist was measure crankcase pressure, it should be close to -11 to -14hg at idle. if it is less, you have a crank case leak likely. check all areas that OIL and AIR are, this pretty much limits it to all gaskets on the valve cover, and front timing cover. High pressure gaskets like vtec or the like, or sump gasket(oil pan) are unlikely to leak significant pressure without there also being a massive oil leak. Weeping oil, and crankcase pressure are what you should look for.

FRM doesn't like to seat rings like IRON sleeves. so maintaining crankcase vacuum is necessary to keep the rings fully seated and minimize oil burn. The original post commented on the similarities of Oil burn being minimized when installing KrankVents. The common denominator between posts on the forum of people minimizing oil burn - crankcase vacuum to effectively seat rings during stroke. Leading to believe the PCV system is undersized, OR since new significant crankcase vacuum leaks have formed causing the PCV to not run as efficiently as Honda intended.

Again sorry, it was no one in this thread. I simply used a Python script to delete all of my posts across the forum
Not going to ask why you thought removing your content was a good idea, or if you have beef with someone specifically, but some of your posts would definitely have been beneficial to some people. Not everyone on here is bad. Really wish you wouldn't have removed them, but oh well.

I tend to approach these forums as a learning tool -- I learn something new here, save myself a ton of money, and try to pass on knowledge and help others with the hope that they'll pay it forward. Not everyone does, but all it takes is one.
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Old 11-21-2018, 01:52 AM
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Originally Posted by HarryD View Post
Not going to ask why you thought removing your content was a good idea, or if you have beef with someone specifically, but some of your posts would definitely have been beneficial to some people. Not everyone on here is bad. Really wish you wouldn't have removed them, but oh well.

I tend to approach these forums as a learning tool -- I learn something new here, save myself a ton of money, and try to pass on knowledge and help others with the hope that they'll pay it forward. Not everyone does, but all it takes is one.
Unfortunately your last statement goes both ways. All it takes is one asshole to ruin it too, and the short story is someone was harping on his amazing work and calling it cheap because he wasn't using OEM parts even though he did such an excellent job you'd never be able to tell the difference (And legitimately saved close to $800 in the process). It was just an off-putting, arrogant, and elitist mentality that really pushes you away from a group even if it isn't anywhere near representative of said group as a whole. That being said I can kind of understand where Deckoz was coming from. If I was putting in the time and effort I wouldn't want to share that with some shithead amongst the crowd of generally good people, and the only way to do that is to remove yourself. Some people may call that petty, but if I took the amount of time and detail to explain things and present them the way Deckoz did and I got shit on I'd probably respond similarly. It's not being a whiney bitch to remove yourself from a situation/place that's below you in terms of integrity and morality. There really are a few people around here that post nothing but shit, it really detracts from an otherwise awesome community, it's a shame.
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Old 11-21-2018, 06:20 AM
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We surely don’t need to lose great members and their content due to immature response/content. This forum will never be allowed to resemble FB.

Please PM/link me to any content that may be objectionable in the UTH forum and I will be happy to review/delete it.

Last edited by Billman250; 11-21-2018 at 06:23 AM.
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Old 01-01-2019, 07:33 AM
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I'm going to add to this, While I minimized oil consumption as notated above. It has been even further minimized. I switched from an 00-03 Valve cover to an 04-05 AP2 valve cover - but using the TSX PCV





My S is seeing about 1/5th quart every 2k with heavy driving after doing all of the above previous posts. A very big difference from 1qt every 300-700 miles depending how hard I drove. Sitting with 223,185mi, on original block and head.

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Old 01-01-2019, 07:44 AM
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I agree with the post above, I did the same minus the tsx PCv. I use to burn 1 quart per 1000 miles. Now I burn almost nothing. I changed all gaskets on valve cover to new also and use valvoline full synthetic. 2002 83k miles
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Old 01-01-2019, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by vasquezgno View Post
I agree with the post above, I did the same minus the tsx PCv. I use to burn 1 quart per 1000 miles. Now I burn almost nothing. I changed all gaskets on valve cover to new also and use valvoline full synthetic. 2002 83k miles
Nice. I run an Castrol GTX 10W-30 API-SN since it has one of the lowest NOAK volatility ratings next to AMSOIL.

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Old 01-01-2019, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Deckoz View Post
But the gist was measure crankcase pressure, it should be close to -11 to -14hg at idle. if it is less, you have a crank case leak likely.
Would you mind elaborating on where you measured the crankcase pressure?

My compression tester has an adapter nozzle for vacuum lines but I am not 100% sure which line to use

Probably the one coming from the intake tube...?



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Old 01-01-2019, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by nubbel View Post
Would you mind elaborating on where you measured the crankcase pressure?

My compression tester has an adapter nozzle for vacuum lines but I am not 100% sure which line to use

Probably the one coming from the intake tube...?


yes you can check vacuum from the front breather while the engine is running at idle. opposing that, you can block off your pcv or ensure its functional first with the engine off and put 3-5psi into the breather to listen for air to find leaks in a quiet environment
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Old 01-03-2019, 07:04 AM
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I was under the Impression that you can not switch the valvecovers between AP1 and AP1, because the eraly modells have 2 camsahft sensor locations and the later ones only 1 ?
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