I did the DIY posted by Xviper.

Flushed twice then filled.

I ran the car for a few min in the driveway after the fill with honda coolant and i felt heat blasting from the vents and it stayed at operating temp (3bars) so I assumed all was well.

This morning making the drive to work no heat. About 5-7min into my drive it went from 3 bars to 4 so I decided to pull over, then it went to 5 bars.

I pop the hood and it's abnormally warm. I let it cool and give the top rad hose a few squeezes. I don't feel any coolant in there.

I sit for about 5min and start it up... back to 3 bars and i drive home. The water temp didn't move but still no heat.

I'm thinking since I may need to run the car with the rad cap off and bleed screw open to rid the system of air. I skipped that step since Xviper didn't bother doing this.

Any other ideas?

 

I actually just had the same thing happen. Up to 5 bars, pulled over, popped the hood to check the overflow tank, it was overfull, by the time I got into the car, temp was back down to 3 bars. 5 minutes later, at my apartment the tank was a bit low, so I refilled. I assume I got a small air pocket.

Maybe you hit a large air pocket that didn't want to bleed out?

 

Thanks for the quick reply...

I'm going to let it cool and run with the rad cap off and bleed valve open.

That's what I think it is too. Just a large pocket of air. Squeezing the hose may have helped hence the reason the drive back it didn't raise past 3 bars.

 

Checked the Helms.. it just said to run with the rad cap off for 2 fan cycles.

When i went back outside half of the overflow tank fluid was gone. I filled it back to the line, removed the cap and let it idle through 2 cycles. Some coolant came out just before the fan came on but not much.

The car didn't go above 3 bars.

I still don't have any hot air coming from the heater though.

 

what I did on mine was open the bleed valves and rad cap and put my mouth over the rad cap hole and blew into it to force the coolant air out of the bleed pipes, then added more coolant and closed the bleeders, then ran the car for a minute to have the thermostat open up and then let it cool, checked the levels in the radiator and overflow tank and topped them off.

 

^ I may have to do that.

Since there's no heat inside the car I don't think any fluid is making it's way into the heater core.

 

Ok... the car is not overheating sitting in the drveway so I think I'll try heading into work now.

The heat is still not working. I did some searching and realized my heater valve is not moving.

Maybe the cable is broken or it slipped off the knob inside the car.

Can anyone tell if this is stuck in the COLD (closed) or HOT (open) position?

 

Nevermind... overlooked having the ignition on to check.

It's working properley,

FYI the pic is in the (open) Hot position.

 

I would disconnect the rubber hose to the reservoir and blow compress air into it with the rad cap shut instead.

On another note, a question to all, since I got my '00 used and have no way to know if the coolant is original, is it possible to tell from the color or whatever that whether the PO has replaced the coolant with Type II?

 

Let me ask you guys something, I also did a coolant flush and then I let the car idle to operating them and then shut the car off and opened up the bleeder valve to let off the air in the lines, but after I didn't feel that it did the job adequately I let the car idle up to operating temp with the rad cap off until the fans cycled on twice, but I didn't open up the bleeder valve, would this get rid of the air in the lines?