If you slip the clutch then it's technically not a clutch drop.

 

And actually if you rev it HIGH the diff tends to live longer because you get the tires spinning. Now if you let it bog or catch off the line, that is what's going to blow the diff.

 

It is true the crush collar is not a weak point in and of itself, however, the crush collar design is flawed in that it will allow further deformation when put under shock load in the transverse direction and allow the preload nut to back off and then allow play in the pinion which is detrimental to proper backlash setting causing pinion damage. Solid machined distance piece will alleviate the possibility of this deformation and loosening of pinion preload nut.

 

ronnuke Posted on May 25 2010, 02:01 PM
There's nothing wrong with the design.
You do need to follow the install instructions though.
No.
When in reverse, the small pinion bearing takes the load.
During engine braking the small pinion bearing takes the load.
There is no load on the crush sleeve at any time after assembly.
Because people go cheap and don't use a new nut.
Or they tighten it too far because they used big steps - and crush the sleeve too far - and then have to loosen it to get the right pre-load on the pinion bearings.
Play in the pinion changes the pinion depth, not backlash.
In reverse or during shifts, when the pinion is drawn into the ring, it goes BOOM.
Backlash is set by moving the ring sideways.
There is no extra deformation on a correctly installed crush sleeve.
A new locking nut will not loosen.

The main downside of a solid distance piece is that one has to be VERY precise in shimming it to the desired lenght to get the proper pre-load on the pinion bearings.

Once the distance piece is shimmed-to-lenght correctly one can tighten the nut tighter than with a crush sleeve, that is true.

But what's the purpose?
There is no load on the nut.

Anyway...


nartnailuj Posted on May 24 2010, 10:15 AM
Well...
The pinion of a hypoid gear set wants to push the ring away from itself (when driving forwards)
The higher the offset of a hypoid gear set the more this happens.
Offset = the distance between the centerline of the ring and the centerline of the pinion.
The S2k hypoid gear set has a pretty high offset and there is a lot of sliding going on generating forces that "push the ring out the back"
That's why Honda recommended SAE 90 GL-5 or GL-6 in the early MY manuals (maybe they still do) as GL-6 was intended to be used in high offset hypoid gears.
The API GL-6 spec never became official though.
And... SAE changed the spec.

IMO, modern multigrade xxW-90 gear oils are lighter and not as "strong" (= have Extreme Pressure capabilities) as the SAE 90 GL-5/6 mentioned in the early year manuals.

Just my opinion though.

 

so you suggest that it is better to use 607 Almasol SAE 90 NEW LE1605 from:
http://www.hardtopguy.com/store/product.ph...52&cat=0&page=1
instead of using Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube LS 75W-90 because its not "stronger"?

 

LE-1605 is as close as you can get to the "original" SAE 90 GL-5.
75W-110 is a bit better in colder (well below freezing) climates.

The End.

 

Where do you think i could find some SAE 90 GL-5 at?
thanks for the tip! i almost bought 75w-110 for the summer, thanks!

 

^ any auto parts store will have some. now if you want really high quality you may have to do some work to find it, depending on your local area.

 

On the contrary, almost no one has any SAE 90. That's why everyone uses multigrades like 75W-90.

Like Spitfire said, "LE-1605 is as close as you can get to the "original" SAE 90 GL-5."

 

I don't know anyone with a 4.77 or any gearing. But I would love to if anyone lives in sacramento