DIY brake Bleeding
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 17,003
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Originally Posted by PeterL,Jun 23 2008, 06:53 AM
The gravity method is slow! Took about 4 hours total, mainly due to my RF caliper bleeding very slowly - much slower than the other corners. I followed the procedure outlined above, but my RF was so slow, I bled the other corners while the RF caliper was still open. I used ATE Blue.
So, my tweak on this method is to bleed more than one corner at a time. I can't think of a problem with doing it this way. In fact, it could go much faster if you bleed all four corners at the same time.
So, my tweak on this method is to bleed more than one corner at a time. I can't think of a problem with doing it this way. In fact, it could go much faster if you bleed all four corners at the same time.
Former Moderator
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Mother F'in TN
4 open bleeders, better be quick on the master cylinder refill.
I use a Pocket HDS tester to activate all the solenoids in the ABS/VSA modulator to free any trapped air on a system that has had a master cylinder replaced, or let the cylinder run dry and suck air on the inlet side of the calipers.
Unfortunately, you won't be using one on a DIY procedure since it costs about 4K
I use a Pocket HDS tester to activate all the solenoids in the ABS/VSA modulator to free any trapped air on a system that has had a master cylinder replaced, or let the cylinder run dry and suck air on the inlet side of the calipers.
Unfortunately, you won't be using one on a DIY procedure since it costs about 4K
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Nelson, BC
Bump, thanks for the procedure Billman and thanks for the pics Special Ops.
I followed Billman's instructions using ATE Super Blue and I now have a noticeably stiffer pedal. Of course, there is still some give, but it's definitely stiffer than before. This is on a 2007 AP2 with 18,000km, going from factory brake fluid (which has seen a couple track days) to the Super Blue. The pictures were helpful too.
For what it's worth, I did this on level ground, using the car's spare tire jack, and noted the following times for the fluid to bleed out on its own:
FR - 10 minutes
RR - 45 minutes
RL - 20 minutes
FL - 5 minutes
For those doing this for the first time, here's a list of what you need:
1. Brake fluid - 1 canister of ATE Super Blue is more than enough. I used about 2/3rds of it.
2. Brake cleaner - use this to spray down everything where brake fluid MIGHT have splashed and use it to clean the brake fluid off your tools afterwards. Brake fluid is terrible stuff, so the cleaner is invaluable.
3. Tubing - SEVNT4 above suggested Home Depot, 3/8" outer diameter and 1/4" inner diameter clear vinyl tubing, which is exactly what I used.
4. 10mm wrench
5. A clear plastic bottle to collect the old fluid. Any old coke bottle will do.
6. Rags to catch spills and to wipe stuff.
7. GLOVES - have a box of disposable gloves so you can change them frequently. You don't want to touch brake fluid on anything!
8. Wheel removal tools
9. Book to read while waiting.
I followed Billman's instructions using ATE Super Blue and I now have a noticeably stiffer pedal. Of course, there is still some give, but it's definitely stiffer than before. This is on a 2007 AP2 with 18,000km, going from factory brake fluid (which has seen a couple track days) to the Super Blue. The pictures were helpful too.
For what it's worth, I did this on level ground, using the car's spare tire jack, and noted the following times for the fluid to bleed out on its own:
FR - 10 minutes
RR - 45 minutes
RL - 20 minutes
FL - 5 minutes
For those doing this for the first time, here's a list of what you need:
1. Brake fluid - 1 canister of ATE Super Blue is more than enough. I used about 2/3rds of it.
2. Brake cleaner - use this to spray down everything where brake fluid MIGHT have splashed and use it to clean the brake fluid off your tools afterwards. Brake fluid is terrible stuff, so the cleaner is invaluable.
3. Tubing - SEVNT4 above suggested Home Depot, 3/8" outer diameter and 1/4" inner diameter clear vinyl tubing, which is exactly what I used.
4. 10mm wrench
5. A clear plastic bottle to collect the old fluid. Any old coke bottle will do.
6. Rags to catch spills and to wipe stuff.
7. GLOVES - have a box of disposable gloves so you can change them frequently. You don't want to touch brake fluid on anything!
8. Wheel removal tools
9. Book to read while waiting.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 311
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From: East Bay
Gravity bleeding didn't work on my car. It was very slow on the front driver's side wheel but the others are just super slow. I ended up using a peristaltic pump to assist and it worked like a charm. After the job, the pedal feels the same as before which I thought could be better. Thinking that there could be residual air near the bleed valves (from loosening them), I went through each wheel loosening the valve to let just a little fluid through. I did see few air bubbles with the fluid and as soon as they are gone, I retightened the valve again. I drained maybe 2ml or so from each caliper. Now the pedal feels brick-hard!
Joined: May 2008
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From: Chino Hills
Originally Posted by stealthx32,Jun 19 2008, 11:01 AM
I think he means remove it off the caliper and hang it off the flex line so you get more force on the fluid. In theory, yeah it's faster, but the amount is probably negligible. You definitely can't unbolt the lines though, because the the caliper holds fluid as well. Once you unbolt the line, you introduce air into the caliper.
Registered User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 331
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From: None
I placed an order for a remanufactured rear caliper that I will be picking up and installing tomorrow. I have never bled\flushed brake fluid so I have a few questions regarding disconnecting\reconnecting the brake line.
In the morning I have to remove my bad caliper to bring to the dealership (5 minutes away) for a core exchange when I pickup the new caliper.
Is it ok if I secure the brake line in an upright position covering the hole with a piece of plastic for 10-15mins until I return with the new caliper. If no, any suggestions?
When I attach the new caliper, can I do a gravity bleed on only the one caliper (instead of entire brake system)? I am going to buy some honda dot3 brake fluid at the dealership and already have 3/8x1/4 clear tubing.
I'm trying to figure out a simple way to go about getting the new caliper installed. Since the new caliper will be empty and thus full of air, would it be smarter to keep the caliper and brake line elevated while connecting the line to prevent the air from going back into the system? Once I get the line attached, should I also bleed while it is elevated since all of the air will be towards the caliper and near the bleed valve?
Any pointers are greatly appreciated.
In the morning I have to remove my bad caliper to bring to the dealership (5 minutes away) for a core exchange when I pickup the new caliper.
Is it ok if I secure the brake line in an upright position covering the hole with a piece of plastic for 10-15mins until I return with the new caliper. If no, any suggestions?
When I attach the new caliper, can I do a gravity bleed on only the one caliper (instead of entire brake system)? I am going to buy some honda dot3 brake fluid at the dealership and already have 3/8x1/4 clear tubing.
I'm trying to figure out a simple way to go about getting the new caliper installed. Since the new caliper will be empty and thus full of air, would it be smarter to keep the caliper and brake line elevated while connecting the line to prevent the air from going back into the system? Once I get the line attached, should I also bleed while it is elevated since all of the air will be towards the caliper and near the bleed valve?
Any pointers are greatly appreciated.
Registered User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 331
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From: None
Originally Posted by GinoGT,Dec 22 2008, 07:52 PM
Just install the caliper and do a proper brake bleed. Don't cut corners on your brakes, unless you're hoping to win a Darwin Award.
Im trying to determine if all wheels are necessary since I am only working with one.
Here's what I have to do as I understand it, feel free to correct anything.
1. connect brake line to new caliper
2. connect one end of tubing to brake bleed valve
3. put other end into container containing new brake fluid
4. open bleed valve
5. pump brake a few times until i do not see air bubbles come out. make sure reservoir stays full so air doesnt get sucked in
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,061
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From: Land of Cincinnati Chili
I wouldn't don't do a gravity bleed at all in this case. There will probably be just too much air in the system. You use two people. You make sure resevoir is not close to empty. You crack bleed valve. They depress brake pedal and hold it down. You close valve. Tell them to release brake pedal. Lather, rinse, repeat till no more air. All the while you make sure resevoir doesn't go empty.
You also return the old brake caliper for core AFTER you have put on the new one. That's how core charges work.
You SHOULD actually be doing work on both sides of the car at this point (you surely are changing both sets of brake pads on that end (front or rear) of the car, right? You simply don't need to do a bleed on the other corners if you don't disconnect them.
You also return the old brake caliper for core AFTER you have put on the new one. That's how core charges work.
You SHOULD actually be doing work on both sides of the car at this point (you surely are changing both sets of brake pads on that end (front or rear) of the car, right? You simply don't need to do a bleed on the other corners if you don't disconnect them.