There is 3 pages(on 50ppp) of people using clear hose. You gotta use it.

I did this last night and it took maybe an hour and ahalf. Super easy and the pedal does have a much better feel to it. Im not sure "welded to the car" but it is a good improvement of what it was.

I found locally ATE SL(gold) so it was a little tricky as the previous fluid was almost the same color. But, the fluid coming out was super nasty and thick looking. ATE you can see through now

While I had the car in the air(oil change as well) I decided to clean my rims as well. Sooo much better.

 

Im kind of confused on how to exactly to tackle this, I like to be sure when I work on my car so I know everything im doing is correct (peace of mind)

Anyone down to make a CLEARer DIY that we all can follow step by step with good pictures and list of tools and parts? Im sure many of us will be using it including me

 

Its pretty straight forward.

 

Tirerack.com sells it for $12.00 and they are a sight sponsor. Just click on the banner at the top of the Tire and Wheel forum so they know where the order came from.

 

Are you guys also using ATE Blue/200 DOT 4 for your clutch fluid flush/bleed? If so, how is that working? Any noticeable difference in clutch performance?

 

Yes. I did use the leftover ATE blue for my clutch. It works fine. The clutch pedal got alittle more solid.

 

All good except #4. The higher you raise the car, the less the effect of gravity. But unless you get part-way to the moon, you won't notice the difference. A larger difference is the vertical distance between the master cylinder and the caliper - that is what determines the pressure differential that controls the flow. One could argue that "dangling" the calipers to get them lower than installed height would increase the differential, but again, I'm not sure you could notice the difference. It's just physics.

And on #2, if the air could "percolate out", it would have done so already. In fact, some auto manufacturers try to design their brake systems so that there are no "air traps" in the system and any air will always percolate up to the master cylinder. ABS is a wrinkle in this plan.

 

I had great success with the Billman method/procedure last night. I had the car jacked level all the way around and did the RF, LF, LR, RR bleed order. It actually went pretty quickly with the tubing and an empty plastic water bottle with a hole poked through the cap. I used Valvoline synthetic DOT 3&4. It was much lighter and clearer than the Honda DOT 3 that I had been using before. So there wasn't any problem seeing when the fresh fluid was coming through. It was sometimes difficult to see the fluid flow in the tubing, but there was no mistake observing the end of the tubing stuck into the plastic bottle. It will take the majority of a small bottle of fluid to do the whole car. The brakes feel great!

While I did the brakes, I also did the tranny fluid and a clutch bleed. The clutch feels better than it ever has. I bled through almost a whole small bottle of the Valvoline brake fluid. I probably didn't need to, but I wanted this clutch to work better than it ever has, and it does now. Awesome clutch pedal firmness and pressure now! Better than when new.

Thanks to all those who have contributed to this thread, especially Billman.

 

Went through this process last night and everything went perfectly, ended up taking a little under 2 hours for all 4 corners. The brake pedal is definitely a bit better, but the *big* change is the clutch pedal- the fluid that came out of there may as well have been mud. Highly recommend at least checking to see what the clutch fluid looks like while you're doing the brakes.

Big thanks to everybody that contributed useful info over the years to this thread

 

I wish there was some pics posted