so basically you pressure bleed instead?

 

Correct.

 

i did gravity bleed for my clutch and was suprised of how quickly the fluid came out when i opened the bleeder..... i think some air got in the system coz the clutch feels "soft"
I may have to try it again with someone pouring the fluid in while i open the bleeder

 

Just did a gravity bleed on mine. Order I used was from the shop manual. LF, RF, RR, LR. Speed was so-so. Driver front took under 5 minutes to gravity bleed out. Passenger front was almost as quick. However Rear Passenger took a while, at least 20 minutes, more like 30. I let the Rear Driver go on its own for 15 minutes then pedal bled the rest.

Car is an '00 at 45k on its original fluid. Switched to ATE Super Blue. Pedal feel was good. Pedal feel is still good, maybe a little stiffer under medium-hard braking. Not sure.

I'm wondering if the rears were slower because the front was not elevated when the rear was elevated. It literally was 2 drops per second in the rear. From here on I'll be gravity bleeding the fronts and then pedal bleeding the rears.

 

Anyone know if I can I gravity bleed a front BBK? Originally getting bubbles out of those calipers with manual pumping was a huge PITA

 

Should be able too.

 

i think i only used 1/2 of liter. i can't really tell since the ate blue can is tin. but is it abnormal to use so little?

when i bled the brakes, all four corners eventually turned blue but i probably only added maybe 1.2 reservoirs worth of fluid.

 

If it didn't start blue and is blue now, you are good.

It will vary on how much is used, so you should be perfectly fine.

 

I did the same and what was left over was even enough to flush the front and rear brakes on my sport bike and I still had some left

 

I think the rear elevated when the front wasn't has a lot to do with the time it took you to bleed the lines.. remember you are using gravity to bleed the brakes, which means you were working against it... and I also think Billman's sequence helps too.