You're right!! I just got done bleeding my brake 2nd time. After 1st failed attempt. I Bleed the brake with your order.

The only thing I did different was. I didn't drain the master cylinder. Since it have the fresh ate dot 4 in there. I used a 2' feet vacuum hole drain into a bottle. I also have the hole submerged in the brake fluid in the drain container. I did this so it didn't suck up any air or have any air bubble in the line (or try to have no air in the drain line). It took 30 minutes for each corner. But you're right! The brake pedal with my stainless steel brake line is much more firm than oem and the 2nd failed attempt or the oem line before i changed out the new lines.

1st time it had crappy spongy feel. The pedal went almost to the floor. ABS and everything works. just the pedal feels that's terrible. Now I'm ready for my track day in 2 weeks!!!

Thanks again for this awesome information!!!

 

I never heard of this way before! I rather to do this than jacked up the front of my car then removed the front wheels since I only have 2 jack stands. Then almost 1 1/2 just for the front to be done. Same procedure for the rear. Took me 3 hours to do the billman way. But, yes, the pedal is awesome firm.!!!

 

just wanted to double check; for gravity or manual bleeding (having a second person press the brake pedal down), does the key need to be in the on position or car is off?

 

It doesn't matter. You can keep the keys in your pocket if you want.

 

I'm doing the the gravity bleed right now. All the sides came out nice but there seem to be NO fluid coming out from the rear passenger side. The rear driver side came out fine. Does it matter if the hand brake is on or not?

 

I don't think it matters. The e-brake is cable driven. It's not part of the hydraulic brake system.

 

After seeing the number of people who got air in the system it got me thinking. In the first step of removing the old fluid from the reservoir with the turkey baster, do you really need to open up the valve to get the last little bit out or can you just go ahead and fill the reservoir up with Super Blue at that point? Will getting that extra little bit out really make a difference? Plan to do it this weekend so looking for opinions.

 

If you are switching to ATE or a different non OEM fluid, I think you would definitely have to open up the lines on each caliper or else the blue would just mix with the old OEM fluid. Just make sure the bleeder valve is closed before the second person releases the brake pedal and you should be fine.

I think I had a miscommunication with my friend and didn't close the valve before he released the pedal, which is how we got air into the system.

 

This gets into splitting hairs on something that, for pretty much everybody, isn't going to make any practical difference in the operational capability of the braking system. On a daily-driven car, your could leave a substantial amount of the old fluid in the system and you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. The dirt and water absorption from the old fluid would also have beyond negligible effects.

That said, if you follow the process laid out by Billman in the 7th post in this thread, the process is dead simple and much less intimidating than it's made out to be. For me, it falls into the category of, "I'm making the effort to do something, I may as well take the effort to do it correctly." Which is to say, why get lazy on something so easy?

 

I switched to ATE Super Blue using gravity bleeding while I was changing my engine, trans, and diff oil. It was super easy and didn't really take much extra time because I was changing other fluids while the old brake fluid was draining out.

I imagine that for every one person who has trouble and posts about it, there are many more who did it without any problems.