S2Keri

How come you didn't replace it with like a Hasport mount or something? They're much stronger IMO

ans2k

yeah, i did end up doing this because i had to remove my x-brace and i just went ahead and remove both bolts.

ans2k

i didnt have to do that. i just installed the motor mount and lowered the engine and i was good to go.

i might be wrong but dont they transfer more vibration to the chassis?

tophermecier

Jacking up the engine is necessary to get this mount out it seems. I would think that things on top of the transmission, like the shifter assembly and etc, could be damaged or bent by doing so(since jacking the engine up also moves the tranny upwards). So my question is, is it really ok? And if so, how much is safe without damaging or hitting anything?

Thanks for any input!

fernando.

As it's been stated, you're not jacking anything up, you're just supporting the engine with the jack so it doesn't drop down.

ans2k

^^^ what he said. dont jack up the engine. just hole it up enough to pull out the broken mount.

ans2k

you can do it the way i did or just hold up the engine. remove the bracket and reinstall.

PierreC

Adding my 2 cents to an old post:
I replaced my mounts with Megan Mounts this weeks end. Here is some advice that would have helped me a lot, had I known before:
- An air ratchet (30$ at Lowes) will save you a lot of frustration, time and energy to unscrew the 4 bolts on each side of the motor mount bracket. Reason is: the space is so tight that you can barely move the hand ratchet more than 1 or 2 clicks sometimes. And the bolts are LONG. A must have IMO.
- I found it far easier to unbolt the bracket on BOTH sides of the engine to take the mount out. Reason is: you won't have to jack the engine too high to get the mounts out (even passenger side), and you can torque the top bolt between the mount and the bracket to spec on both sides.
- You will need ratchet extensions of different lenght (in case you don't have them already). (2 and 4" IMO)
- Do not put the nuts on the bottom of the engine mounts until you are finished with both sides. Reason is: avoids damaging the mounts when you jack the engine.
- On the rear mount, do not put the 10mm nuts until you have reattached the 3 14mm bolts on both sides. Reason is: it makes the re-installation a lot easier and the little tabs on the mounts will be in place in the bracket notches and avoid the mount to twist when you screw the nuts back on.

Slowcrash_101

I just lowered the subframe and raised the engine simultaneously to do mine, but I have free access to an alignment rack so no big deal if I mess up my alignment by doing it this way.

bavarian06

Old thread but I need help. We removed the old mounts but cant put the new ones back in. We jacked up the engine as high as possible already (hitting the firewall) but the upper thread of the replacement engine damper still cant slip through the upper engine bracket hole. It still needs another half inch to clear and slip through.

I was reading the comments. Am I interpreting this correctly. Someone suggested backing out the mount thats attached to the engine by four screws, 3/4 of its way out? In retrospect, I think that might help it slip the upper thread in. Thanks in advance.