DIY replacement cabin air filter
02-28-2009, 08:58 PM
#1
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DIY replacement cabin air filter
My AP2 has about 31k on it and the cabin filter was never changed. I was bored tonight and decided to change it myself -- but no way was I paying $25 for a replacement and making a trip to the dealer (30 min drive). So I made my own.
Elapsed time was probably 30-45 minutes, but now that I've done this I can probably do it again in half that. The process is pretty much just removing the paper filter from the plastic frame and replacing it with a cutout from a furnace air filter. It's not particularly difficult, but it is a bit messy.
Disclaimer: if you hurt yourself, break something, or do something stupid...I'm not responsible. Read the directions before you begin and please be safe.
Materials:
-your OEM cabin filter
-any brand furnace filter (you can get HEPA or Micron ones if you so desire)
-super glue
-wire cutters
-utility knife
-scissors
-Dremel tool or coarse file
-gloves
-screen mesh (optional, see 9a)
-lint roller
1. Remove the cabin air filter: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...owtopic=145495
Holy cow is mine dirty! I have dust bunnies in it.
2. Separate the two pieces by unlatching the three tabs
3. Take the piece with the filter element and use your utility knife to cut away the paper element around the outside edge. I recommend a sawing motion, as the paper is very thick and coarse. Don't bother trimming it down the sides of that middle ridge, we're just going to cut that out.
4. Use wire cutters to snip that plastic ridge down the middle.
5. Yank and tear the paper filter away from the plastic frame. You may need to use your knife on the backside to cut in a few places you missed.
Try and pull as much of the filter out as possible or the next few steps will be very messy.
As you can see, Honda molds the filter into the outer edge of the plastic -- so it's tough to really remove it all. However, you can use a Dremel tool or a coarse file to get the edges smooth.
6. Using the Dremel/file, remove as much of the remaining filter on the outer edge as possible. You want a smooth surface with no pieces of the old filter left. If you have a file, have fun for the next few minutes. If you have the Dremel, this will take you about 60 seconds.
With the Dremel, start at the low speed and move up to high if necessary. Do not push too hard or you'll burn through the plastic frame. This is going to get very messy, so prepare yourself. You'll be kicking up plastic and paper dust, and lots of the crap from the old filter. I had to use a lint roller to clean my gloves and shirt off.
When all is said and done, you should have just a plastic ring with a smooth inside.
7. Lay the plastic ring on top of the furnace filter. Cut a rectangle out around the plastic frame. Don't worry if your filter has the chicken-wire like mine, most scissors will cut right through it.
8. This next part is not an exact science so don't worry about getting everything trimmed exactly. What you want to do now is take the scissors and round off the corners of the filter. Try to copy the shape of the plastic frame as best you can.
9. Test fit the cut piece of filter and make adjustments as necessary. Scrunch the pleats together as much as possible -- more filtration area. Once you are satisfied with the fitment, take your super glue and coat the inside of that plastic frame. Now re-insert the filter and let it set. The glue could take a few hours to dry.
There you have it! You've made your own cabin air filter for just a few dollars and 20 minutes of your time.
9a. Optional step: if you like, you can take a piece of screen (for screen doors) and overlay this on the filter. It should help stop any larger pieces of debris and act as a reinforcement for that filter. Cut it larger than necessary and fold the edges over, then glue or tape them down, or just bend it over the opposite edge.
10. Reinstall the filter.
Total cost was about $10 for the supplies. What I like about this is the furnace filter is so big you can probably make about a dozen replacement filters. Plus, you only have to smooth out the inside of that plastic ring the first time. When the filter is dirty, just tear it out and glue in a new piece....steps 3 through 6 can be ignored.
Hope this helps. Let me know how it goes!
Elapsed time was probably 30-45 minutes, but now that I've done this I can probably do it again in half that. The process is pretty much just removing the paper filter from the plastic frame and replacing it with a cutout from a furnace air filter. It's not particularly difficult, but it is a bit messy.
Disclaimer: if you hurt yourself, break something, or do something stupid...I'm not responsible. Read the directions before you begin and please be safe.
Materials:
-your OEM cabin filter
-any brand furnace filter (you can get HEPA or Micron ones if you so desire)
-super glue
-wire cutters
-utility knife
-scissors
-Dremel tool or coarse file
-gloves
-screen mesh (optional, see 9a)
-lint roller
1. Remove the cabin air filter: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...owtopic=145495
Holy cow is mine dirty! I have dust bunnies in it.
2. Separate the two pieces by unlatching the three tabs
3. Take the piece with the filter element and use your utility knife to cut away the paper element around the outside edge. I recommend a sawing motion, as the paper is very thick and coarse. Don't bother trimming it down the sides of that middle ridge, we're just going to cut that out.
4. Use wire cutters to snip that plastic ridge down the middle.
5. Yank and tear the paper filter away from the plastic frame. You may need to use your knife on the backside to cut in a few places you missed.
Try and pull as much of the filter out as possible or the next few steps will be very messy.
As you can see, Honda molds the filter into the outer edge of the plastic -- so it's tough to really remove it all. However, you can use a Dremel tool or a coarse file to get the edges smooth.
6. Using the Dremel/file, remove as much of the remaining filter on the outer edge as possible. You want a smooth surface with no pieces of the old filter left. If you have a file, have fun for the next few minutes. If you have the Dremel, this will take you about 60 seconds.
With the Dremel, start at the low speed and move up to high if necessary. Do not push too hard or you'll burn through the plastic frame. This is going to get very messy, so prepare yourself. You'll be kicking up plastic and paper dust, and lots of the crap from the old filter. I had to use a lint roller to clean my gloves and shirt off.
When all is said and done, you should have just a plastic ring with a smooth inside.
7. Lay the plastic ring on top of the furnace filter. Cut a rectangle out around the plastic frame. Don't worry if your filter has the chicken-wire like mine, most scissors will cut right through it.
8. This next part is not an exact science so don't worry about getting everything trimmed exactly. What you want to do now is take the scissors and round off the corners of the filter. Try to copy the shape of the plastic frame as best you can.
9. Test fit the cut piece of filter and make adjustments as necessary. Scrunch the pleats together as much as possible -- more filtration area. Once you are satisfied with the fitment, take your super glue and coat the inside of that plastic frame. Now re-insert the filter and let it set. The glue could take a few hours to dry.
There you have it! You've made your own cabin air filter for just a few dollars and 20 minutes of your time.
9a. Optional step: if you like, you can take a piece of screen (for screen doors) and overlay this on the filter. It should help stop any larger pieces of debris and act as a reinforcement for that filter. Cut it larger than necessary and fold the edges over, then glue or tape them down, or just bend it over the opposite edge.
10. Reinstall the filter.
Total cost was about $10 for the supplies. What I like about this is the furnace filter is so big you can probably make about a dozen replacement filters. Plus, you only have to smooth out the inside of that plastic ring the first time. When the filter is dirty, just tear it out and glue in a new piece....steps 3 through 6 can be ignored.
Hope this helps. Let me know how it goes!
03-01-2009, 01:04 PM
#4
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Ehh, I was bored and the dealer is rather far away (30+ minute drive). I drove with the heat on for about 45 minutes today and it seems fine. No super glue smell or anything. Checked the filter when I got back and it's still sitting as it should.
03-01-2009, 01:38 PM
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I got my cabin air filter for 14 dollars from advance auto parts....I beleave its called kragen in diff. areas, either way though. When I clicked into this thread I thought it was gonna be a half ass attempt at making a filter. That came out REALLYREALLY GOOD! A for efforct most def.
Jordan
Jordan
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03-13-2009, 03:32 PM
#9
well I just checked mine...dirty like the rest of ye aft pirates. I cleaned mine hehehe...itll do until I can get to the dealership. Im looking to upgrade mine tho to a K&N filter...can anyone help?
