DIY Spark Plug replacement(pics)
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DIY Spark Plug replacement(pics)
Okay first off, the waiver. This is what i did, it is a guideline, not a procedure. But i am a total rookie so there are some good newbie observations that should help you to prepare for what you have to do. So dont mess up and blame me please.
Okay, you will need
*new plugs, (four of them) NGK get em from Bap Geon. $13.92 each.
*Allen Key set for plug cover
*10mm for the coil pack screws
*Spark Plug Socket
*Torque wrench
Okay, try not to do this on a hot engine. Only because it will burn you! Lesson learned.
First start by removing the Spark plug cover. I dont now the allen size. (sorry)
Remove the four screws
Next you will want to remove the coil packs. Do this using a 10mm socket. Extract (remove) the coil pack, it is pretty long. Also, only do one at a time, pull the coil pack and then the spark plug and replace the coil pack.
Continue with each pack/plug in the same fashion. NOTE: I used power tools to make the job go faster. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. If you use power tools, you can strip the threads in the head if the bolts get cross threaded.
Next is look at your plugs.
the one on the right is horrible. The probe is covered with build up. The one on the left is just fine.
now check the gap. They should be gapped to about .039-.043, you should not adjust the gap at all. But do make sure to check it. If it is out of spec, take the plug back and ask for another. Do not try to gap the OEM plugs.
I put anti-seize on the plug's threads. Use a very very small amount. Too much anti-seize will throw off the torque when you try to tighten the plugs, which can let them back out (if they back out, they can ruin the head). NOTE: the brand of anti-seize I used was Loc-Tite. DO NOT use the red or blue Loc-Tite that is made to keep bolts from loosening.
Now place the new spark plugs into the car, and tighten them until you feel the crush washer sit. The torque spec is 18ft/ibs. So wait for the pop and then your done with that. Then replace the Plug Cover. Start the car. If it doesnt, then you meesed up.
This is pretty simple and quick. Should take about fifteen minutes. Enjoy.
Okay, you will need
*new plugs, (four of them) NGK get em from Bap Geon. $13.92 each.
*Allen Key set for plug cover
*10mm for the coil pack screws
*Spark Plug Socket
*Torque wrench
Okay, try not to do this on a hot engine. Only because it will burn you! Lesson learned.
First start by removing the Spark plug cover. I dont now the allen size. (sorry)
Remove the four screws
Next you will want to remove the coil packs. Do this using a 10mm socket. Extract (remove) the coil pack, it is pretty long. Also, only do one at a time, pull the coil pack and then the spark plug and replace the coil pack.
Continue with each pack/plug in the same fashion. NOTE: I used power tools to make the job go faster. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. If you use power tools, you can strip the threads in the head if the bolts get cross threaded.
Next is look at your plugs.
the one on the right is horrible. The probe is covered with build up. The one on the left is just fine.
now check the gap. They should be gapped to about .039-.043, you should not adjust the gap at all. But do make sure to check it. If it is out of spec, take the plug back and ask for another. Do not try to gap the OEM plugs.
I put anti-seize on the plug's threads. Use a very very small amount. Too much anti-seize will throw off the torque when you try to tighten the plugs, which can let them back out (if they back out, they can ruin the head). NOTE: the brand of anti-seize I used was Loc-Tite. DO NOT use the red or blue Loc-Tite that is made to keep bolts from loosening.
Now place the new spark plugs into the car, and tighten them until you feel the crush washer sit. The torque spec is 18ft/ibs. So wait for the pop and then your done with that. Then replace the Plug Cover. Start the car. If it doesnt, then you meesed up.
This is pretty simple and quick. Should take about fifteen minutes. Enjoy.
#2
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aluminum head with powered tool do not mix, removing it with a electronic torque driver/wrench can stripe off the head very easily.
just use a ratchet set, the tq spec is in FAQ.
also you do not adjust the coated oem plug, the coating can flakes off if you pull, bend the ground tip. a wire gauge or feeler gauge is much much better measuring tool than a cheapie dial style gauge.
nice picture but yeah
just use a ratchet set, the tq spec is in FAQ.
also you do not adjust the coated oem plug, the coating can flakes off if you pull, bend the ground tip. a wire gauge or feeler gauge is much much better measuring tool than a cheapie dial style gauge.
nice picture but yeah
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i was not adjusting them. Just checking them. that is why i wrote to check them and not gap them. Also, I have never stripped a bolt in my life. If you know how to set the setting on the power wrench, then you will never strip anything.
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The actual torque that is required is 18 ft-lb. Straight from the S2000 service manual. The proper gap is .039-.043 in. Just so you know. Don't use power tools.
#6
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Originally Posted by Skatethesea,May 10 2008, 11:59 AM
i was not adjusting them. Just checking them. that is why i wrote to check them and not gap them. Also, I have never stripped a bolt in my life. If you know how to set the setting on the power wrench, then you will never strip anything.
Power tool and aluminum head is asking for trouble, don't get me wrong i have air powered torque wrench(500ft lb, 60 gallon compressor), electrical impact gun(800ft/lb?), etc but i don't see the point of using them to remove a 21ft/lb sparkplug. did i mention how soft is the material and how stripe prone they are?
there's people blasting off their lug nut with impact gun all day long and getting away with it, but is that the proper way to do things?(not according to my ASE manual)
i could careless what you do with your car to be honest with you
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Originally Posted by Skatethesea,May 10 2008, 10:19 AM
If there is a torque spec, i do not know it. But you should know when enough is enough.
Good effort on you for taking the time to document your work.... and to your credit you did provide a disclaimer or in your words a waver, which I think you meant a "waiver".
Just be careful what you post when you do threads such as these because not everyone reads the fine print so to speak.
Tim
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Originally Posted by iam7head,May 10 2008, 12:20 PM
i know, i read what you wrote, it's more of a general warning statement for the rest of the readers. i am sorry if i came off sounding like i am "dissing" you
Power tool and aluminum head is asking for trouble, don't get me wrong i have air powered torque wrench(500ft lb, 60 gallon compressor), electrical impact gun(800ft/lb?), etc but i don't see the point of using them to remove a 21ft/lb sparkplug. did i mention how soft is the material and how stripe prone they are?
there's people blasting off their lug nut with impact gun all day long and getting away with it, but is that the proper way to do things?(not according to my ASE manual)
i could careless what you do with your car to be honest with you
Power tool and aluminum head is asking for trouble, don't get me wrong i have air powered torque wrench(500ft lb, 60 gallon compressor), electrical impact gun(800ft/lb?), etc but i don't see the point of using them to remove a 21ft/lb sparkplug. did i mention how soft is the material and how stripe prone they are?
there's people blasting off their lug nut with impact gun all day long and getting away with it, but is that the proper way to do things?(not according to my ASE manual)
i could careless what you do with your car to be honest with you