When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Excellent post! I note you did not replace the brushes as you weren't able to source locally. Are these easy enough to purchase (a part number?). Also if the brushes were on hand do you think they'd be difficult to access in the housing?
Thank you! I could not find a part number for the brushes themselves. I just made enquiries with the whole motor's model number - DS4HX or that loooong number below it. While working on it I noticed the brush wires are tightly connected to or coiled behind the magnets you see in the armature's housing. That made me wonder how would one replace the brushes with those coiled wires intact unless you buy a whole new housing.
That reminds me, one helpful retailer told me according to their system they can only see the armature as a replacement part. I could be wrong about that as memory fails now. You can remove the brush holder by removing those two small screws at the back of the housing. From there I would assume you can pull the brushes out and replace them but still, the way those wires are coiled up in the housing makes me doubt it. Unless you can just pull the brushes themselves one by one and replace those while leaving the wiring intact. But then, what if your wires are cut/broken? In that case I would guess a replacement armature housing may be required.
Nice posting!
I have a DENSO remanufactured starter and I’m thinking of rebuilding the old starter when I replace it. I guess I just need a brush holder & a snap ring? (#14,15)
i been screeching for 15 years...go starter go. don't die on me now...i don't wanna do this.
Its really not that bad at all. A lot of hype has been produced over how "hard" it is to get the starter in and out. Like most jobs, spend 15 min looking at it from all sides before you start and just be patient.
Starter comes out easiest from the bottom. The top bolt is really the only thing you need to do from the top side.
Top starter bolt is not hard at all to remove and replace. Hardest part is seeing it, but once you get in the right spot to see it (it has a red head on it) it is not hard. You need a very long extension and a universal adaptor, but otherwise not hard. Just watch for the knock sensor connector with the extension so you do not break that off.
When putting the top bolt back in, wrap the universal joint on the extension with electrical tape. Allows it to still move but not flop all around. Then put some tape on the socket with just a bit of it holding the bolt to the socket. This will break free once you go to remove the socket, and will hold the bolt securely in the socket until you have it in place.
This. When I did clutch all I read was how impossible the top starter bolt was. If you've worked on truely swear worthy cars, this is cake.
Flashlight and peer through intake runners as you guide long extension into place. Move alternator outta the way first (I found it easier to fully remove alternator, but ymmv).
i been screeching for 15 years...go starter go. don't die on me now...i don't wanna do this.
It's Winter here, car is on jackstands anyway. I figure a starter rebuild is an almost $0 project that won't make a real difference except for that awful sound.
I'll post a pic tomorrow of it totally disassembled and cleaned up.
Maybe with this cleaning it'll go another 20 years.
06-05-2018, 10:11 PM
