difvision

Hello!

Ribbed Idler is reverse thread... but the other one, the smooth one? is it normal or reverse? I cannot find it in the service manual.


ANSWER / NOTE: Ribbed IDLER is reverse and the smooth one is regular thread.

thanks!
Francisco

SpitfireS

So far I've not found what LHX3 means.
You can replace the original NTN with EVERY 6203 bearing.
6203 means d=17, D=40, h=12, nothing more.
The extra numbers make it special and specify the seal type (steel, rubber, low torque drag, double lip, etc) type of grease, allowed rpm, high temp, stainless, tolerance, etc.
And so far I've not found the 6203 LHX3 for sale, other than in the $$$$ OEM pulley.


I wonder how long the general 6203 bearings last.
Any info on that?

Slowcrash_101

Depends who makes them and what kind of quality controls they have. Someone like SKF would probably make a superior bearing in general because of the steel and parts they use. Nothing like Norwegian steel, better than German American and Japanese IMO.

SpitfireS

Hmm.. a top quality SKF 6203 ZZ has steel seal plates and they do not drag (small gap)
2RS means it has rubber seals that drag, get hot and burn at high rpm.
So at 80C / 12000 rpm the grease may run out.
That's bad... mmkay?
It's in the details... what does LHX3 mean?

bgoetz

I am using the 6203RS ebay bearings. Only have a couple 1000 miles but they seem fine to me so far.

Slowcrash_101

I'm guessing it's an internal Honda thing, to differentiate the part number specified for our cars. But hey, I can't knock something if it works, OEM or not.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6203-2NSE-RS...item5d2879bac3

Here are the specs for this particular bearing:

•Item: 6203-2NSE Nachi Ball Bearing
•Type: Nachi Deep groove Ball Bearing
•Radial Clearance: C3
•Closures: Double sealed rubber seals RS/RS1/2RS1
•Dimensions: 17mm x 40mm x 12mm/Metric
•ID (inner diameter)/Bore: 17mm
•OD (outer diameter): 40mm
•Width/Height/thickness: 12mm
•Size: 17 x 40 x 12 mm
•Dynamic load rating Cr: 9,550 N
•Static load rating Cor: 4,800 N
•Limiting Speed: ◦Grease Lubrication: 12,000 RPM

•Made in Japan
•Quantity: One Bearing
•Equal: 6203 RS / 6203 2RS

If you really want to get fancy you can get ultra high speed ceramic bearings

SpitfireS

So.. X3 = Honda?
That may be, who knows.
It would explain something.



Looking at the diameter of the crank pulley and the tensioner I guess, by eye, just looking, that the ratio is pretty close to 2:1
That means the tensioner will rev up to 18K rpm.
With that in mind the NTN 6203 LLH is the better option.
Or the SKF 6203 2RSL.
Both low drag seal types with max rpm of 15k.
Still lower than 18k, but even if we say (or think, or claim) so, we do not spend all day at 9k...

Downside: so far no luck finding the LLH or 2RSL.

Maybe LHX3 means low drag seal with high (18000) rpm allowed?

Slowcrash_101

There's a two inch difference between pulleys one is 5 1/4" the other about 3 1/4 so 40% difference. So at 9000 rpm the tensioner pulley is doing ~12,500 so a 15k rpm bearing would be safe.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6203-2RS-Hyb...item58a4e7188e

This one is guaranteed to work, I've seen many hybrid ceramic bearings go to 20,000 rpm with zero issues over 72hr continuous use. Hell, they use ceramic bearings in turbos and those regularly see 100,000rpm, but like I said, this is if you want to get fancy.

SpitfireS

Well.. I was looking at them at low light and it was cold.


That would explain why I got the sizes wrong I guess.
(IOW: I'll measure soon)

No way I'm buying a no-brand bearing that does not even spec a max rpm, ceramic or not.
Btw: ceramic is not the be-all and end-all in bearing land.
Ceramics are (or is it "is") more brittle then steel and require smooth running and little movement of the inner race vs. outer race.
Not what one has with a belt tensioner pulley IMO.

The type of seal and type (and amount) of grease are, as far as I know, the deciding factor in max rpm.

One other crucial thing: if one needs to re-use a bearing, the force to remove it must NEVER be transfered via the rollers.
So: if a bearing is seated on the outer ring, its very bad to hit the bearing on the inner ring alone to remove it.
Same goes for mounting it: if its (pressed) seated on the outer ring, only "hit" the outer ring.
Follow this or you will end up with a damaged bearing to begin with.

Slowcrash_101

http://m.ebay.com/itm/130670123059?nav=SEARCH

The cool thing about ceramic hybrid bearings, is they're lighter, have less friction, and generate less heat, they also get away with lower lubrication films. Hybrid ceramic bearings are used on motorcycle wheels and bikes, so no worries about operating under load. Even no name ceramic bearings can take any speed south of 50,000rpm, I've validated machines that used them in electric motors.