My wife and I took our '03 up to Billman's shop from Baltimore to have mine replaced. I bought the car with 13k miles on it 3 years ago and not knowing if I have a cracked retainer has been bugging me ever since. Bill is a fantastic guy and did an excellent job. He's extremely knowledgeable, super friendly, and runs a nice clean shop. Bill, thanks for everything. And we love your dog!!

 

I know this is an old post but I am going to be removing my head due to a leaking head gasket and really am not sure if I should replace all valve retainers with AP2 retainers or just the intakes. There is one post on this thread that says you should replace them all with AP2s. Kind of confused what is the right thing to do. Any input greatly appreciated, Thanks

 

Just used this thread over the weekend. Got my retainers swapped out, thanks. After you do the first one it gets easier. Everything went smoothly.

 

I'm a little concerned about the removal of the cams and messing something up with the timing of the engine. Are there any pointers that I should follow? I know there is something done with a couple of bolts to keep everything in place but more specifics on it would be very helpful.

 

I searched for pictures on the site for cams at top dead center and found a couple good ones. It is actually pretty easy to line them up when you see how the timing marks are supposed to look.

I don't know if I thought of this or whether I saw someone else post it, but I found TDC and did one of the cylinders, and I had long drinking straws in the spark plug holes of all the other ones (or you could use long bamboo shishkebab skewers) and when you rotate the crank you can see when the next cylinder is at the top. Rotate, watch the straw rise, keep rotating and when the straw stops, that cylinder is ripe for replacing the retainer. When done, rotate and watch for the next straw to peak in another cylinder. We actually had one valve drop by accident when the compression tester spun loose and all the air went out, but you could just grab the valve stem, pull it back up, seal the air source back on, and try again.

I do have to say if you are not a big person, have someone large helping. I could not shove the tool down hard enough (did not use the spring compressor) at 150 pounds. My friend who is about 270 had to push down HARD with that silver tool thingy to get the retainers to seat. Would have never been able to do that myself.

This tool:

http://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-2211...ve+keeper+tool

Works great if you have the body weight.

 

Thanks, I'll keep researching for more info on removing the cams.

It seems like a decent tool to remove the cotters but what did you use to re-install the new retainers?


Another concern... is 40 psi really enough pressure to keep the valves in place while your 270 lb friend unloaded his weight on that little tool? I would be concerned that the valve would be pushed down if stuck and (1) release pressure (which isn't a big deal)OR a bigger concern (2) scar/damage the sides of the valve seat if there were to be any significant wiggle.

I bought the spring compressor OP mentioned @ Harbor Frieght for 13 US in addition to this Valve Holder Hose They both seem to be built OK for periodic use.

 

With the piston at tdc removing 1 spring at a time the valve will not fall into the chamber. I've never used shop air to hold the valves closed.

 

I would like to know the answer too. Great question!

 

Being a new owner of a 2002 s2000. Looks like I will be doing this replacement this weekend.

Thanks for all the information.

 

The tool from King Performance work great but you need to pull off cams to install it. I had to knock on top the valve retainer to get the retainer clip loose. 40psi will hold but few of my valves drop when I tried to knock the retainer clip loose. Just turn each cylinder to TDC even if they drop they only drop an inch like a few of mine did.