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Dyno chart - Mugen ECU header and exhaust

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Old 08-25-2004, 07:39 PM
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I don't have the chart handy. It peaked over 240hp/156ftlbs on a dynopak with that ECU.
Old 08-26-2004, 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Sideways,Aug 25 2004, 10:39 PM
I don't have the chart handy. It peaked over 240hp/156ftlbs on a dynopak with that ECU.
What other supporting mods did you have at the time?
Old 08-26-2004, 08:30 AM
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Factory intake and exhaust. Stock.
Old 08-26-2004, 11:06 AM
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And your A/F was a thing of beauty. If you get a chance to post it again I'd like to compare the A/F chart with mine...
Old 08-26-2004, 04:01 PM
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chuing,

I was thinking about getting the ECU...would you do it all over again or pass on the ECU. Is there anything mroe noticable i.e. throttele response?
Old 08-26-2004, 04:17 PM
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Hey tenblade2001,

Now i put this to you... wassup man, I thought we were the dynamic duo who's the only ones we're aware of that did OEM ECU swaps?

Nah seriously, I've considered this myself for a long while but here's a few things I've experienced (in a different car) first hand. The throttle response at higher rpms is improved but the most notable difference was the bottom end power (it feels like the torque you get when the engine is cold) but all the time. This feeling goes hand in hand with advancing the ignition timing since Mugen has no knock sensor, I'd imagine that it's allowing the car to keep more ignition timing rather than freak out like the OEM unit and retard timing and therefore robbing you of power.

No immobilizer, and no OBD2 sensors I think. The N1 ECU appears to allow to provide a smoother/harder rev to 9k, probably due to the leaner AF ratios. I recall reading something about how the ECU also shifted the power peak higher somewhere.
Old 08-26-2004, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Hyper-X,Aug 26 2004, 07:17 PM
This feeling goes hand in hand with advancing the ignition timing since Mugen has no knock sensor,
No knock sensor!?!?

Are you sure? That sounds very, very dangerous. Even too dangerous for a "racing" ECU.
Old 08-26-2004, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by tenblade2001,Aug 26 2004, 07:01 PM
chuing,

I was thinking about getting the ECU...would you do it all over again or pass on the ECU. Is there anything mroe noticable i.e. throttele response?
Steve, I'd do it again. The only thing better would be the EMS, but that requires quite a substantial investment in tuning whereas the N1 is plug and play.

The N1 along with the other mods I've made seem to me to help my midrange noticably. The torque is pretty smooth, which enhances drivability. My goal is to tune it (somehow) so that my A/F is maybe a point leaner across the board.

Regarding the knock sensor - Mugen advises that their cooling mods and 92+ octane be used with the ECU, presumably to pre-empt any detonation. So I would assume that either the N1 has no knock sensor or a less-sensitive sensor. We have 93 octane here in Florida
Old 08-26-2004, 05:54 PM
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I wish we had 93 at the pumps here... at the price we pay in Hawaii, we should be getting 95 octane IMHO.

The knock sensor probably was defeated because the OEM unit backs out way too much timing even at the slightest hint of knock. What Chiung said is correct the N1 ECU requires improved cooling and the highest octane at the pumps, maybe even mixing in a small proportion of 100 octane would be beneficial. What I'm concerned with is why they needed to defeat all of the OBD2 sensors and the immobilizer unless that was the key to eliminating the knock sensor... hmm.
Old 08-26-2004, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Hyper-X,Aug 26 2004, 08:54 PM
The knock sensor probably was defeated because the OEM unit backs out way too much timing even at the slightest hint of knock. What Chiung said is correct the N1 ECU requires improved cooling and the highest octane at the pumps, maybe even mixing in a small proportion of 100 octane would be beneficial. What I'm concerned with is why they needed to defeat all of the OBD2 sensors and the immobilizer unless that was the key to eliminating the knock sensor... hmm.
I could see the ECU being more aggressive regarding knock, i.e. running right on the ragged edge until it sees knock and then only backing down a little bit... but I couldn't see the thing just ignoring knock entirely.

As for the immobilizer... since the ECU is for "racing use only", they probably didn't want you have to take your key to the dealer to get it to work with the racing ECU. Plus, since it's "for racing use only", the car should be locked in a garage or trailer unless it's actually on the track. And, also, from what I recall, I don't think the JDM ECU has an immobilizer, and I think the Mugen ECU is based off of it.

As for the OBD-2 sensor, I'm guessing the only thing they really do differently is ignore the secondary O2 sensor. Since it's only for emissions purposes anyway, you wouldn't need it on a racing ECU.


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