The question still remains, how can you prevent the dealership from seeing high revs and redlining? Someone said that if you can find the ECU you can disconnect it and it should clear out the info?
How do we keep dealer from seeing our over revs and top speeds if this is not the case?

 

You can prevent the dealer from seeing them by not doing it. If you are heading in for service, you can rdisconnect the battery or remove the backup fuse (I forget which one) for 30 seconds. If you do that, though, you will lose the error codes and data stored that will let them diagnose any trouble.

If you're worried about what the dealer sees, you need to find another dealer or learn to handle them better. IMO, there's nothing you can do to or with the car that they shouldn't warranty. The rev limiter is there for a reason

 

OK, which fuse is it or if the battery is disoconnected, how does it reset itself - does need anything special?

 

Pull the negative battery cable for at least 10 seconds, 30 to be safe. That's it. ECU forgets everything it's learned, any codes it's stored, and all but the factory programming.

Have your radio code handy, you'll need is as your radio will have forgotten it, too.

Can't help on the fuse that will do the same thing- my manual's at home.

 

What if I REALLY don't want to have my radio (Pioneer P1R) to lose its memory. It takes about 20 minutes to reprogram and reconfigure if it loses power.

Is there a fuse that specifically hits the ECU?

 

There is a thread in the FAQs. Resetting the ECU/Check Engine Light. Check that.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by marcucci
[B]You can prevent the dealer from seeing them by not doing it. If you are heading in for service, you can rdisconnect the battery or remove the backup fuse (I forget which one) for 30 seconds. If you do that, though, you will lose the error codes and data stored that will let them diagnose any trouble.

 

The MSM66589 OKI processor used has masked ROM (can't be changed) and static RAM in it (requires power to retain). The ROM is used for the "factory" code (stays there with power off) and the SRAM is used for "modifiers" and learned data (goes away when power is cut).

To the best of my knowledge, there is no other memory in the ECU. I'll have to go back and double check. I think there is one other processor but like the main chip, it only has SRAM in it.

I wouldn't worry- any dealership that refuses warranty work based on your driving would probably find another excuse to not do the work. They don't need any computer data to harass you. The best advice is to find a reasonable dealer or find a good lawyer. I don't believe that Honda states anything to the affect that driving over xx speed or taking the RPMs to fuel cut will void the warranty.