Just bought a set of Autometer gauges,( Lunar )from a fellow member,air/fuel ratio,and electrical oil press.0-100psi,and Autometer a-pillar.
How does the electrical oil press.gauge works?
Are they easier to install than mechanical ones?
I know,it must work with an electrical impulse,but where do I tap the press sending unit?
I read the DIY in FAQ,from X-viper,but those must be a bit differents,as they are not mechanical.
And what about the air/fuel;must tap to an O2 sensor,somewhere.
Any experience with the Autometer A-pillar;how does it fit,color match,etc...
It notice in the pics.,it already has a hole in it,for the defrost....
Thanks.
Emil.

 

Oil pressure gauges can be electrical or mechanical (like the kind that actually brings oil through a tube into the the cabin and to the back of the gauge - DANGEROUS!).

"Electrical" oil pressure gauges work via a "sending unit". This sending unit taps into an oil pressure source (like what I used in my DIY - at the stock pressure sender location). The sender is basically an electrical "strain gauge" that senses the oil pressure change and alters the electrical signal based on that pressure. This signal goes by wire to the gauge. You need to get a "T" and steel flex cables to remotely mount both the stock sender and the Autometer sender, so you don't have the weight of both hanging off the engine.
"Mechanical" gauges need a pressure source just like the electrical one. If this is the kind you got, you should have gotten the white, translucent tubing that carries the oil from the engine to the back of the gauge. For this, you should have also gotten the fitting (with its ferrules) for the ends. I say it's dangerous because if the oil line ever breaks or leaks, you can have a whole bunch of oil all over your passenger compartment. If you have this kind, you should think twice before using it.

For the A/F gauge, you need to tap into the Primary O2 signal wire at the ECU. You need to "T" tap into it. This is the pure WHITE wire on PIN 16 on the 31 pin connector. You will see 3 connectors coming out the bottom of the ECU - a 25 pin, 31 pin and 32 pin. PIN 16 is near the center of the 31P connector.

 

Thank you,X-viper,
I bought those,from a fellow member,they are brand new,never been installed.
The oil press.gauge is electrical,and all I need to buy,is some wires,all the rest is included (sending unit etc..
Air/fuel gauge,is complete,box never been opened.!!!

 

You're not quite set just yet. You'll still need that "T" adaptor at the stock oil pressure sending unit and a couple of steel flex hoses. To make the wiring go more smoothly, you would benefit from a "t-tap" and some female spade connectors of the size you need to plug into the empty make power taps on the fuse box. Some zip ties will come in handy, too.

 

That what it is:http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugede...gid=2584&sid=5
Beside the wires,do you think everything else is included?

 

If you were to substitute the stock sender with this, then you have all you need, but you must keep the stock sender or your oil light will be on all the time. You need the "T" so you can attach both the stock sender and the Autometer sender. And at the very least, one flex hose so you can remotely mount the Autometer sender. Too much weight on the engine fitting can cause it to crack. If this happens, you'd lose your oil very quickly and also have to contend with getting the broken fittin out of the engine.
Try your best to get the fitting that goes into the engine made out of brass. Brass is much stronger than the typical aluminum ones.
Remember these pics? This one shows the "T" at the stock sending unit location. The blue thing is the "T", but the thing that actually screws into the engine is brass. You can see the stock sender screwed onto the front of the "T" and on the end, you see the flex hose.

A better picture of the type of flex hose you need.

 

Very clear.
Thank you,I appreciate.!

 

FYI, greedy sells a Block adapter plate, that goes between your oil filter and yoru block. the adapter plate comes w/ 1/8BPT output... so u can stick your sender in, oh wait your sender is 1/8 something else not BPT but u can buy a adaptor for it.. anyways the point is its much easier to install, I have the same set up, just bought the Adapter plate from ebay for 52 shipped.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...TRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
heres the link, click on the seller his got 3 more...

 

Why not put the T connector at the end of the flexible fuel line? That would further reduce the strain on the adapter screwed into the block. The only other thing you'd need to do is extend the electrical connector wires to the stock oil pressure switch.

 

This is a great idea. Sometimes, the simplest idea is the best. I was too close to the situation and couldn't even see this elementary solution.