Honda manual says engine coolant is to be changed every 10 years; thereafter every 5 years.

Is this correct? 10 years seems like a very long time to wait before changing the coolant!

Also, I've been told engine coolant will cause premature corrosion if used past lifespan.

What is the correct time and/or mileage interval to change engine coolant?

My ride is an AP2, MY08.

 

At 10 years then every 5 years--no need to do it any sooner than Honda recommends. (I have an 07 and have changed the other fluids--(trans, diff, brake, clutch) twice so far (and will change all 4 again this summer) but waiting til 10 years for the coolant.

Use Honda coolant (need two gallons) and follow Billman's coolant bleed procedure to get all the air of of the system--it's not hard but there's a few tricks to doing it right that he spells out.

The Honda coolant runs about $20 a gallon at the Honda dealer and it's the consensus choice (as well as Billman's recommendation). $20 is pricey compared to Prestone or Peak but you don't change it very often.

 

Yep.....assuming it's not dirty or contaminated.

I change my 03's every 5 years.

Fluids are cheap.

\rlr
Carolina

 

I was actually just wondering the same thing. I have an 01 with very complete records back to 08 and no record of a coolant flush . The coolant looks very clean, but I am a bit worried it has never been done. I am thinking of doing it shortly after pulling it out of storage. Is there a DIY for the actual flush process?

 

Easy as pie if you have compressed air, and a bunch of distilled water. Just drain fill with cleaner and distilled water 2-3 times, run car, drain refill with coolant. Compressed air so you don't have to pull the bolt on the side of the block, it's kind of tricky to remove, and you need a specialty washer to replace it.

 

Do you have a DIY for the process using compressed air? Also what cleaner do you use?

 

Just put compressed air through the bleeder on the firewall and open the radiator cap and drain plug to drain, that way you don't have to pull the bolt on the side of the block. I generally don't need to use a cleaner as I'm a bit of an engine neat freak, but that prestone stuff is ok if you have dirty coolant. When filling with distilled water do it through the firewall bleeder, open the head bleeder and fill until it starts spilling from the head bleeder, then close it. You can run the car to get the water pump moving it through the block, just briefly(couple of minutes is all you need), then drain. Do it two or three times it should come out clean, then just fill with coolant, and bleed out the air as normal.

 

Follow Billmans procedure here
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/818...h/page__st__25

THERE IS NO NEED FOR COMPRESSED AIR, DISTILLED WATER, OR USING THE HOLE ON THE BLOCK(IT DOES NOT WORK AS IT IS INTENDED)

 

If all you're doing is changing the coolant I agree. If the coolant drain on the block is useless, why'd they put it there? Could it be because some coolant stays in the block even though the radiator drain has stopped dripping? Now you could open the drain bolt on the block near the exhaust manifold, or you can force compressed air through the firewall bleeder to push out any leftover coolant.

 

if you're using HONDA coolant, and removing HONDA coolant, there is no need to "clean" the system with distilled water- my 10 year old fluid looked good. I blew shop air into the rear access port for 5 minutes with the lower rad open and all other ports.

The block access in my civic has a threaded block heater.

darcy