Sucks to live in Canada, it's like the exact opposite of Florida, over there it's cold, or a little less cold, here it's hot, and a little less hot

 

We here in Miami have hot and dry, and hot and wet.

 

The Audi that I used to approximate lag between coolant and oil reaching operating temp has an oil to coolant oil cooler, and it was still 4 min of hwy after coolant reached temp that oil began to creep above 150 on the gauge (lowest reading on gauge), which is still not warm enough to start pushing it. Not sure how well this equates to our cars, except that there surely is some lag, and its probably minutes, not seconds. So I think its prudent to wait and not just go by coolant temp.

 

I'd prefer rational over simple (and simple minded).

 

Miami is like Houston, there is no dry. You have periods when it's not raining, but there's still enough humidity in the air that you get soaked anyway.

I usually wait 2-3 minutes after starting the car and then go.

 

This is generally considered bad practice. Maybe on really old school cars this made some sense back in the day, but with modern fuel injection, best practice is to start engine and immediately start driving. You drive gently until things are warmed up. No lugging, no excess rev'ing. This is considered best for the engine, and has the added benefit of warming everything else at the same time (not to mention getting back 2-3 min of your life for every cold engine start - which I just did the math, if you start driving at 16 and stop when you reach 80, and average one such 2.5 min cold start/day, works out to, wait for it....40.5 days spent sitting in an idling car).

 

150,000+ and it hasn't done anything negative to my car. I'm much more worried about the over 1/3 of my life I waste traveling to/from and working a job than I do about 1 month spent in a stationary car out of 768 months. All a matter of perspective.

 

I'm with gotpepsi here. The AP1 already locks you below 6k RPM at 1 bar, 2 bars you can exceed 6k but no VTEC, and finally 3 bars let's you get on it. If it was necessary to wait all that time, I think Honda would have designed the car that way. Even if the oil is not fully up to temp, its still circulating and doing its job, no?

 

But it's too thick so pressure is higher and can cause it's own problems.

 

Respectfully, how would you know? What negative result would one expect from, say, driving hard on a cold engine. Premature engine wear. If your engine has more wear than it should, would there be any noticible symptoms? Not until it actually results in something like bearing knock.

So if warming up by idling excessively also caused more wear than otherwise, how would someone notice?