Engine hesitation while idling
I am telling you I chased this for 2 years. Map whack, new map, various fuel cleaners, ECU reset, new plugs, IAC valve cleaned twice. My explanation is that the throttle is set too low and just for a second when you have been driving and let off throttle, the TPS has a dead band that drops the idle below 500 rpm. The car just about shuts off for about 1 sec and than catches itself once the TPS relizes where the throttle actually is. Also when setting the idle, I normally turn the throttle manually and let it drop 5-6 times to make sure this is where the idle will settle once I let off the gas. The adjustment took about 5-10 minutes, problem is gone and I wish I had read about this 2 years ago. Mine started shutting off at red lights and the shutter looked like a had a misfire. I had new plugs put in last year and I only drive the car on weekends. My car has had nothing by 93 octane since the day I purchased it with only 17k on it. I also use Lucas fuel system treament on a regular basis. New synthetic oil was also put in this weekend. None of this fixed the issue but the adjustment.
Best and fast fix I have found for this (idle adjustment just under 1k)
Best and fast fix I have found for this (idle adjustment just under 1k)
I am telling you I chased this for 2 years. Map whack, new map, various fuel cleaners, ECU reset, new plugs, IAC valve cleaned twice. My explanation is that the throttle is set too low and just for a second when you have been driving and let off throttle, the TPS has a dead band that drops the idle below 500 rpm. The car just about shuts off for about 1 sec and than catches itself once the TPS relizes where the throttle actually is. Also when setting the idle, I normally turn the throttle manually and let it drop 5-6 times to make sure this is where the idle will settle once I let off the gas. The adjustment took about 5-10 minutes, problem is gone and I wish I had read about this 2 years ago. Mine started shutting off at red lights and the shutter looked like a had a misfire. I had new plugs put in last year and I only drive the car on weekends. My car has had nothing by 93 octane since the day I purchased it with only 17k on it. I also use Lucas fuel system treament on a regular basis. New synthetic oil was also put in this weekend. None of this fixed the issue but the adjustment.
Best and fast fix I have found for this (idle adjustment just under 1k)
Best and fast fix I have found for this (idle adjustment just under 1k)
But thanks dude, will do
Just did all of this you guys have posted on mine this week. No difference for me. I read anohter post to adjust the idle a little higher. I did this today to keep the rpm just under 1k. Worked like a charm. No shutter or cut off at a red light. You can not even tell the idle is higher by the sound. The car sounds smoother. I have been fighting this for about 1-2 years and had almost given up. Do not replace anything else, just adjust the throttle up slighty. You can test the sweet spot by loosening the jam nut move the set screw up and manually turn the throttle. When the throttle returns to normal if you still have shutter, move the set screw higher until you just have little to no shutter. You may also need to tighten your throttle cable. I did this about 3-4 months ago, so mine was already tight. You would not believe how responsive the car is with the cable as tight as it will go without moving the throttle position.
yup just did this all yesterday, took my entire intake manifold off, and there was a heavy layer of soot on everything. I cleaned it all up to brand new, replaced map and gaskets, made a big difference, but i still have an idle issue. Checked voltage at WOT and at Idle and my TPS is garbage, reading way low Voltage at both idle and wot..so time for a new throttle body.
yup just did this all yesterday, took my entire intake manifold off, and there was a heavy layer of soot on everything. I cleaned it all up to brand new, replaced map and gaskets, made a big difference, but i still have an idle issue. Checked voltage at WOT and at Idle and my TPS is garbage, reading way low Voltage at both idle and wot..so time for a new throttle body. 

Originally Posted by HS2K007' timestamp='1301288133' post='20402114
Just did all of this you guys have posted on mine this week. No difference for me. I read anohter post to adjust the idle a little higher. I did this today to keep the rpm just under 1k. Worked like a charm. No shutter or cut off at a red light. You can not even tell the idle is higher by the sound. The car sounds smoother. I have been fighting this for about 1-2 years and had almost given up. Do not replace anything else, just adjust the throttle up slighty. You can test the sweet spot by loosening the jam nut move the set screw up and manually turn the throttle. When the throttle returns to normal if you still have shutter, move the set screw higher until you just have little to no shutter. You may also need to tighten your throttle cable. I did this about 3-4 months ago, so mine was already tight. You would not believe how responsive the car is with the cable as tight as it will go without moving the throttle position.
I will need to search for the thread again. It is simple, look under the throttle body and there is a set screw that determines the resting location of the throttle. Loosen the jam nut and move the screw up until you have the throttle right where you want it. Tighten the jam nut and you are set.
I will definitely do this! Still doesnt really explain the random hiccup/cough that happens ever 15/20 seconds (moreso when car is warmed up...)
But thanks dude, will do
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You are correct it may not be the root of the problem. I think is is more related to the TPS sensor than anything.
But thanks dude, will do

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You are correct it may not be the root of the problem. I think is is more related to the TPS sensor than anything.
The TPS could actually make some sense. At least in the 06+ ecu's the Throttle Position vs Throttle plate is a little... well.... goofy. I'm not sure if it's like that in the 00-05 ecu's. Or perhaps that was just the flashpro software? Although after flashpro fixed it, my throttling felt a lot more... accurate. But like I said I'm not sure if that was Hondata fixing a problem they had, or overriding a problem in the original ecu.



