S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Engine just conks out :( Suggestions?

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Old 09-30-2003, 08:34 PM
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Default Engine just conks out :( Suggestions?

Looking for suggestions on how I should be tracking this one down...

Coming home from a night out, pull up to the toll booth, the engine dies...I thought maybe I sidestepped the clutch and killed it. Next toll booth, same thing, but I still wasn't sure. Pulling up to the gate at home, I pull it out of gear, let out the clutch...nothing for a couple of secs (around 1,200 rpm), then it dies.

It only seems to do this when I let off the gas. The dash is still bright and the car has no problem cranking over. The engine is running smoothly, no hesitation, and pulls just fine as long as I'm moving.

I don't believe it's the battery since the engine cranks over with plenty of power. It could be the alternator on it's way out, but I'm not sure what symptoms one might exhibit when it's not quite dead...possibly the ones I described.

Anyone?
Old 09-30-2003, 09:29 PM
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I think its time for some grounding wires..... =)
Old 09-30-2003, 09:59 PM
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You're probably aware of this but couldn't it be your MAP sensor?
Old 10-01-2003, 04:46 AM
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Dan, two thoughts. first, my car idles at around 8 or 900, not 1200. Could you be running too rich for some reason?

Second, I'm sure you are aware that on deceleration, our fuel injection systems actually stop spraying fuel. This is a fuel efficiency design. Honda and others figure why burn fuel to decelerate? The fuel injection starts spraying fuel again around 1,200 rpms. I notice this when I decelerate down to that RPM. Without touching the gas, I can feel a little "push" when the gas starts to flow again. Sometimes, when I have the clutch depressed at an intersection or in traffic I think my car is about to stall out when it kicks in again near idle.

Anyway, Im just wondering if something is wrong with your Fuel injection "restart" circuit such that it doesn't come back on at the requisite RPM.
Old 10-01-2003, 06:39 AM
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Bill, would that be controlled by the ECU? It might be worth it to try resetting it.

Blake
Old 10-01-2003, 07:14 AM
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Originally posted by infinitebass
Bill, would that be controlled by the ECU? It might be worth it to try resetting it.

Blake
That is worth a try, but there are sensors tied into this system that may also go bad.
Old 10-01-2003, 10:06 AM
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I'll beat on the MAP sensor later today just in case, but I don't think that's it...I haven't seen any hesitation that would point towards a flakey MAP.

It idles a bit under 1,000 most of the time, but after letting off the gas it takes a few secs to settle down from 1,200...it didn't just settle down, it plain went kaput. I'll try resetting the ECU since it's so simple, but I tend to think that's not it either since I'm not receiving any sort of CEL. Mine does the near-stall thing at lights, especially when it's hot outside, but it's never actually stalled.

The more I think about it the more I'm leaning towards the alternator starting to choke Others have seen worse in shorter periods of time. Not sure where to go with this one...
Old 10-01-2003, 11:06 AM
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Check the MAP. You may also want to look at the IAT and coolant temp sensors. Could also be your idle air control valve. All those things should generate codes if they fail though.

UL
Old 10-01-2003, 11:08 AM
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Just to throw something else out there as a possible cause. I've 62k miles on the car...could the belt be losing its tension, slipping, and therefore dropping too much voltage from the alternator?
Old 10-01-2003, 12:47 PM
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We have a belt tensioner that should take care of the belt. Check and make sure it is still strong and not seized. I doubt it is this though. Go with the other suggestions about the MAP, idle air control but also check your plugs.


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