Engine Oil Light on at Idle....
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 29,880
Likes: 5,427
From: Ontario Canada
sorry to hear jfusion, you have helped so many on this forum too! Hopefully you get things sorted quickly, it sounds like shaved pieces of rod bearing but im just throwing that out there. You havent installed any motor mounts have you with aftermarket hardware? I have seen a case of that in which the hardware busted the castings off the engine block and sent it into the oil.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 29,880
Likes: 5,427
From: Ontario Canada
Thanks Nick, I appreciate the offer of help. If the damage is restricted to rod bearings I might be okay, if it goes beyond that it might be a bit too much for me to handle. I'll keep your offer in mind, nice of you to suggest it. Thanks bud.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 910
Likes: 3
From: lakes region NH
the oil pump hasn't failed the bearings are what create the pressure, the pump moves the volume
The pump is so ridiculously simple on a honda I have no way to even imagine the pump failing
when I built the motor for the civic I pulled the oem pump for the turbo build, checked specs after 250,000 miles, ported it by smoothing sharp edges a tad to improve flow and stuck it back in.
the oil pressure is low due to a bearing being spun or worn out enough to be out of OEM clearances resulting in a pressure drop, pop the pan off and check the rod bearings its not hard very easy to get to
posted before reading
cant just throw the new bearings in, they will just spin too plus the mains are junked up now as well
crank has to come out, be micro polished to remove the old bearings remains that were melted to the surface of the crank then the fresh bearings can be installed. you may need to play with different then OEM color bearings to get proper clearances.
The pump is so ridiculously simple on a honda I have no way to even imagine the pump failing
when I built the motor for the civic I pulled the oem pump for the turbo build, checked specs after 250,000 miles, ported it by smoothing sharp edges a tad to improve flow and stuck it back in.
the oil pressure is low due to a bearing being spun or worn out enough to be out of OEM clearances resulting in a pressure drop, pop the pan off and check the rod bearings its not hard very easy to get to
posted before reading
cant just throw the new bearings in, they will just spin too plus the mains are junked up now as well
crank has to come out, be micro polished to remove the old bearings remains that were melted to the surface of the crank then the fresh bearings can be installed. you may need to play with different then OEM color bearings to get proper clearances.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 29,880
Likes: 5,427
From: Ontario Canada
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 29,880
Likes: 5,427
From: Ontario Canada
the oil pump hasn't failed the bearings are what create the pressure, the pump moves the volume
The pump is so ridiculously simple on a honda I have no way to even imagine the pump failing
when I built the motor for the civic I pulled the oem pump for the turbo build, checked specs after 250,000 miles, ported it by smoothing sharp edges a tad to improve flow and stuck it back in.
the oil pressure is low due to a bearing being spun or worn out enough to be out of OEM clearances resulting in a pressure drop, pop the pan off and check the rod bearings its not hard very easy to get to
posted before reading
cant just throw the new bearings in, they will just spin too plus the mains are junked up now as well
crank has to come out, be micro polished to remove the old bearings remains that were melted to the surface of the crank then the fresh bearings can be installed. you may need to play with different then OEM color bearings to get proper clearances.
The pump is so ridiculously simple on a honda I have no way to even imagine the pump failing
when I built the motor for the civic I pulled the oem pump for the turbo build, checked specs after 250,000 miles, ported it by smoothing sharp edges a tad to improve flow and stuck it back in.
the oil pressure is low due to a bearing being spun or worn out enough to be out of OEM clearances resulting in a pressure drop, pop the pan off and check the rod bearings its not hard very easy to get to
posted before reading
cant just throw the new bearings in, they will just spin too plus the mains are junked up now as well
crank has to come out, be micro polished to remove the old bearings remains that were melted to the surface of the crank then the fresh bearings can be installed. you may need to play with different then OEM color bearings to get proper clearances.
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,689
Likes: 21
Originally Posted by speedjunky01' timestamp='1335738861' post='21653750
the oil pump hasn't failed the bearings are what create the pressure, the pump moves the volume
The pump is so ridiculously simple on a honda I have no way to even imagine the pump failing
when I built the motor for the civic I pulled the oem pump for the turbo build, checked specs after 250,000 miles, ported it by smoothing sharp edges a tad to improve flow and stuck it back in.
the oil pressure is low due to a bearing being spun or worn out enough to be out of OEM clearances resulting in a pressure drop, pop the pan off and check the rod bearings its not hard very easy to get to
posted before reading
cant just throw the new bearings in, they will just spin too plus the mains are junked up now as well
crank has to come out, be micro polished to remove the old bearings remains that were melted to the surface of the crank then the fresh bearings can be installed. you may need to play with different then OEM color bearings to get proper clearances.
The pump is so ridiculously simple on a honda I have no way to even imagine the pump failing
when I built the motor for the civic I pulled the oem pump for the turbo build, checked specs after 250,000 miles, ported it by smoothing sharp edges a tad to improve flow and stuck it back in.
the oil pressure is low due to a bearing being spun or worn out enough to be out of OEM clearances resulting in a pressure drop, pop the pan off and check the rod bearings its not hard very easy to get to
posted before reading
cant just throw the new bearings in, they will just spin too plus the mains are junked up now as well
crank has to come out, be micro polished to remove the old bearings remains that were melted to the surface of the crank then the fresh bearings can be installed. you may need to play with different then OEM color bearings to get proper clearances.
I would also of course do the AP2 retainers....
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 7,340
Likes: 110
I guess that changes everything then. What is your gut feeling?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 29,880
Likes: 5,427
From: Ontario Canada
Originally Posted by JFUSION' timestamp='1335742497' post='21653863
[quote name='starchland' timestamp='1335738701' post='21653739']
Was it mosport DDT I'm assuming. This doesnt make sense for me there's got to be some other factor leading to oil starvation
Was it mosport DDT I'm assuming. This doesnt make sense for me there's got to be some other factor leading to oil starvation
[/quote]
I am baffled why the bearings went to hell on a short liesurely drive with no warning when the car was running like mint and the fluids were perfect. Something definitely wore on my track day last fall but there were no warning signs and the damage showed up at a very odd time later downt the road. I am pretty sure I had some oil starvation at Mosport but I can't figure out why the car went to crap this weekend.