If I have to pull the crank then the flywheel must come off and then I will do the clutch anf flywheel upgrade at the same time. Thanks for the tip.

 

Did you have the car since new? If not, the previous owner could have run it low on oil without knowing it. If your's was one of the AP1's that burned oil like mine, but the previous owner just changed it every 3500mi or whatever, he would never have known that he was constantly running it low. That's what happened to mine. The previous owner always changed the oil every 3-3500miles at a quick change place, but never checked the oil himself. Chances are that during the 65,000mi he had it, it was running a quart or more low half the time.

 

I bought the car used in 2009 with 55k miles on it, Ive put on just about 6k miles in 2 years. The car ran like new right up to the time it puked, very strong motor, burning of oil was very reasonable it wasn't a big burner.

 

interesting. my thought on the ap2 oil pump...if your bearings create the pressure they can only use as much oil as they can take, assuming the ap1 oil pump flows enough oil, the ap2 pump flowing more oil would be overkill wouldnt it?

 

Consider headers. Remember, you've already got a real lightweight flywheel. I decided not to spend $250 on one that was only a couple pounds lighter, but, then again, you could probably sell your's to an AP2 owner.

As far as the clutch goes, I wouldn't spend a lot of money upgrading it unless you put out a significant increase in power. You don't need it otherwise and will just have a heavy stiff pedal to deal with. However, the OE manufacturer, Excedy, does make a slightly upgraded version with more and heavier duty dual springs, yet it doesn't have any more effort than normal.

If you're interested, I'll get the model number for you.

 

Well, if you had to top it off between changes, and the previous owner didn't for 55K, then that could have caused a lot of wear of course.

 

Consider headers. Remember, you've already got a real lightweight flywheel. I decided not to spend $250 on one that was only a couple pounds lighter, but, then again, you could probably sell your's to an AP2 owner.

As far as the clutch goes, I wouldn't spend a lot of money upgrading it unless you put out a significant increase in power. You don't need it otherwise and will just have a heavy stiff pedal to deal with. However, the OE manufacturer, Excedy, does make a slightly upgraded version with more and heavier duty dual springs, yet it doesn't have any more effort than normal.

If you're interested, I'll get the model number for you.
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Ive been stockpiling parts for a long time, Ive got a new Honda disc, with an ap2 pressure plate, I have an act 8 lb flywheel that I bought, not sure if I will use it but I might. I have a Mugen header. Ive been keeping the parts in case my factory parts ever give up , but if I was gong to drop the tranny I would probably do the swap at the same time so I don't have to do it later down the road.

 

upgrading flow wont change the fact that the bearings arent creating the pressure

if you just put new bearings in only a matter of time until they go to

use a pllastigauge to measure tolerances and have the crank polished to make it last

 

Where are the facts the AP2 / F22 oil pump has a higher output than the F20 oil pump?
Just asking.

Have you ever thought about an Accusump?
I did, in the weeks after it happened to me.
But I was - still am - unsure how much and how long real world protection it would give so I never installed one.
Besides, where can one put a 2-3 quart oil tank in the engine bay?

Money-&-time-no-object solution would be a dry sump system.
But again, where to put all the hardware in a DD?
I guess its more a true track car thing.

 

Lots of space, huge amount actually, if you remove the air box