engine oil recommendations
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engine oil recommendations
Hi I know this topic has been done to death. lots of talk about mobil and redline etc... have to say lots arent all that easy to come by in the uk, and when you do, they cost a fortune.
read something here about 10w30 being better for run in engine than 0w's as it reduces the burning fuel issues with s2000.
the castrol racing one is for motorcycles-is that an issue? thinking probably not- as honda revs nearly as high as some bikes so the bike oil probably lubricates better at the higher revs.
can get this oil for 30 pound for 4l (approx 45 dollars) which is good here... looking at nearly double for redline.
cheers
read something here about 10w30 being better for run in engine than 0w's as it reduces the burning fuel issues with s2000.
the castrol racing one is for motorcycles-is that an issue? thinking probably not- as honda revs nearly as high as some bikes so the bike oil probably lubricates better at the higher revs.
can get this oil for 30 pound for 4l (approx 45 dollars) which is good here... looking at nearly double for redline.
cheers
Joined: Mar 2011
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Hi I know this topic has been done to death. lots of talk about mobil and redline etc... have to say lots arent all that easy to come by in the uk, and when you do, they cost a fortune.
read something here about 10w30 being better for run in engine than 0w's as it reduces the burning fuel issues with s2000.
the castrol racing one is for motorcycles-is that an issue? thinking probably not- as honda revs nearly as high as some bikes so the bike oil probably lubricates better at the higher revs.
can get this oil for 30 pound for 4l (approx 45 dollars) which is good here... looking at nearly double for redline.
cheers
read something here about 10w30 being better for run in engine than 0w's as it reduces the burning fuel issues with s2000.
the castrol racing one is for motorcycles-is that an issue? thinking probably not- as honda revs nearly as high as some bikes so the bike oil probably lubricates better at the higher revs.
can get this oil for 30 pound for 4l (approx 45 dollars) which is good here... looking at nearly double for redline.
cheers
where did you read that 0 is not good and 10 is better ? I read opposite
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Originally Posted by westfield147' timestamp='1325635803' post='21283062
Hi I know this topic has been done to death. lots of talk about mobil and redline etc... have to say lots arent all that easy to come by in the uk, and when you do, they cost a fortune.
read something here about 10w30 being better for run in engine than 0w's as it reduces the burning fuel issues with s2000.
the castrol racing one is for motorcycles-is that an issue? thinking probably not- as honda revs nearly as high as some bikes so the bike oil probably lubricates better at the higher revs.
can get this oil for 30 pound for 4l (approx 45 dollars) which is good here... looking at nearly double for redline.
cheers
read something here about 10w30 being better for run in engine than 0w's as it reduces the burning fuel issues with s2000.
the castrol racing one is for motorcycles-is that an issue? thinking probably not- as honda revs nearly as high as some bikes so the bike oil probably lubricates better at the higher revs.
can get this oil for 30 pound for 4l (approx 45 dollars) which is good here... looking at nearly double for redline.
cheers
where did you read that 0 is not good and 10 is better ? I read opposite
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From: lakes region NH
Just freaking run what the people who developed the damn car. They know best
They had the engine on an engine dyno
They had to warranty it
They had to stand behind what 100,000 units?
The homework is done for you crack the manual open, see what it says, pour what's in your price range and drive it.
They had the engine on an engine dyno
They had to warranty it
They had to stand behind what 100,000 units?
The homework is done for you crack the manual open, see what it says, pour what's in your price range and drive it.
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From: skokie
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Damn, I just bought 10W-30 with Lucas OS.. but after reading I am draining this crap out. You still think 0W-30 for Arizona temps? Winter is sometimes high 40s and mostly 50s to low 70s. Summer is the obvious above 100F and nights are 90's hahah so you think OW-3O Synthetic is good for AZ temps?
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From: Indianapolis
Check out the above thread link and then decide for yourself.
The 30 is the same in either a 0w-30 or a 10w-30. The 30 grade is what is what you want for normal operating temps, when your engine is fully warmed up, so with either one you are getting what you need.
The 0w or 10w is your starting weight when your engine is "cold". Multi weight oils start at the lower weight when formulated from base stocks. Viscosity index improvers are added depending on the desired viscosity range and the quality of the base stock to begin with. The end result is an oil that flows like a 0w (or 10w) when cold and acts like a 30 when up to operating temperature.
IMO, along with others on this site, is that your starting weight can't be thin enough. Get the oil where it needs to be as soon as possible and as it warms you will gradually get the weight you need for operating temps.
Because the oil starts at 0w, the thinking is that the additives (most commonly wax polymers) can shear too much, your viscosity will be reduced and you will not have a 30 when your up to temp. Shearing can happen, but in my experience it is usually minor and even then does not show notable resulting wear.
The higher quality the fluid to begin with, the potential for shearing is even less. For instance some of todays quality synthetics do not even need wax polymers to achieve their viscosity ranges.
I should say also when talking cold starts, that's not just talking about starting your car on a 25F morning. It can be mid summer and 80F, if your engine has been sitting for any length of time to cool down to ambient temps and you start it, it's still a cold start. Cold starts and cold running are thought to be were the majority of engine wear occurs. Using a 0w-30 will give you slightly better cold flow characteristics over a 10w-30, while still getting the correct 30 weight when up to temp.
Use a high quality 0w-30 with confidence.
The 30 is the same in either a 0w-30 or a 10w-30. The 30 grade is what is what you want for normal operating temps, when your engine is fully warmed up, so with either one you are getting what you need.
The 0w or 10w is your starting weight when your engine is "cold". Multi weight oils start at the lower weight when formulated from base stocks. Viscosity index improvers are added depending on the desired viscosity range and the quality of the base stock to begin with. The end result is an oil that flows like a 0w (or 10w) when cold and acts like a 30 when up to operating temperature.
IMO, along with others on this site, is that your starting weight can't be thin enough. Get the oil where it needs to be as soon as possible and as it warms you will gradually get the weight you need for operating temps.
Because the oil starts at 0w, the thinking is that the additives (most commonly wax polymers) can shear too much, your viscosity will be reduced and you will not have a 30 when your up to temp. Shearing can happen, but in my experience it is usually minor and even then does not show notable resulting wear.
The higher quality the fluid to begin with, the potential for shearing is even less. For instance some of todays quality synthetics do not even need wax polymers to achieve their viscosity ranges.
I should say also when talking cold starts, that's not just talking about starting your car on a 25F morning. It can be mid summer and 80F, if your engine has been sitting for any length of time to cool down to ambient temps and you start it, it's still a cold start. Cold starts and cold running are thought to be were the majority of engine wear occurs. Using a 0w-30 will give you slightly better cold flow characteristics over a 10w-30, while still getting the correct 30 weight when up to temp.
Use a high quality 0w-30 with confidence.