Engine partial apart! Problem identified.(long)
Hey! I had a clanking noise coming from engine last August. It happened suddenly
one night. I was close to home and coasted home about a mile. Engine ran just had a clanking noise. Definetly metal type noise. Alsosounded like how a tanks track sound, the sound would speed up and slow down with the engine rpms.
So I replace the Cam tensioner but no help. I just let it sit for the winter. First few warm days of spring I removed the value cover and checked the retainers and rockers and valve clearences all was good. But low and behold some extra oil in the valve cover that was laying on the ground bathed in sun light showed me someting. Bronze/brass/copper colored flakes in the oil. I know what that means instantly.................BEARINGS!
So a friend of mine after working at dealerships for 20 plus years (Honda/Mazda and a few other) opens up his own three bay garage business about a week ago. I decide to wait til he opens to do the break down.
Earlier this week it began. Removed oil pan and went to work. All the connecting rod bearings have damage. #3 was the worst and #1 had very little damage #2 and #4 had slight damage. None of the bearings spun. That is where I stand as far as work done that was tuesday.
My mechanic friend is next going to check the main bearings. He said this takes some more work to check, he is not sure if he has to remove the cam chain cover and chain to gain access. I think he has to remove the cradle that the crank sits in. I'm not sure he blurts things out and I just nod...this type of job is over my head thats why I brought it to a professional. As far as we can tell so far the rods seem good to go. the cylinder walls look smooth at least from what we can see from underneath.
I guess once we...I mean he takes a look at the main bearings I should know how to proceed. few questions for all the gear heads out there.
1. is it possible to have connecting rod bearing damage and no main bearing damage.
2. If I have no main bearing damage is there any need to repalce the crank?
3. If I have main bearing damage but it is very minimal should I get it machined and go with fatter(thicker) bearings or just get a new crank. Cranks are around $850 brand new.
Again the bearings never spun. They are damaged and NOT smooth like Jessica Alba's ass.
Anyway I was impressed with my friends work. He had the parts all laid out in these stainless steel trays and he went over all the parts and took a good 30 minutes to walk me thru and show and explain all the parts to me.
While its there I am having him replace the clutch , new brake pads and rotors, 4 new tires and a new secondary air pump. I supply all the parts he does the labor.
I pay him cash I get mega discount. He gets a car to work on my car at his leisure while he tries to build his customer base and get the business off the ground.
Just thought I'd share this with you all. I get lots of Info from S2ki.com so I thought I return the favor.
I'm surprised me Engine lasted this long. I beat the livving day lights out of My s2000. Nitrous....crazy drag strip runs (200 plus runs ; Ganley honda did an awesome job with the 4.77 gear install)....wicked mountain runs where it never drops below vtec for 30 minute clips, wicked down shifts!. I try to check the oil often but I have to admit its been down a quart ever so often(but never more than a quart). The car owes me nothing! Its amazing It lasted this long.
53,000 miles on the odo!
What a great car! Can't wait to get behind the wheel again and break something else
As long as its not me
one night. I was close to home and coasted home about a mile. Engine ran just had a clanking noise. Definetly metal type noise. Alsosounded like how a tanks track sound, the sound would speed up and slow down with the engine rpms.
So I replace the Cam tensioner but no help. I just let it sit for the winter. First few warm days of spring I removed the value cover and checked the retainers and rockers and valve clearences all was good. But low and behold some extra oil in the valve cover that was laying on the ground bathed in sun light showed me someting. Bronze/brass/copper colored flakes in the oil. I know what that means instantly.................BEARINGS!
So a friend of mine after working at dealerships for 20 plus years (Honda/Mazda and a few other) opens up his own three bay garage business about a week ago. I decide to wait til he opens to do the break down.
Earlier this week it began. Removed oil pan and went to work. All the connecting rod bearings have damage. #3 was the worst and #1 had very little damage #2 and #4 had slight damage. None of the bearings spun. That is where I stand as far as work done that was tuesday.
My mechanic friend is next going to check the main bearings. He said this takes some more work to check, he is not sure if he has to remove the cam chain cover and chain to gain access. I think he has to remove the cradle that the crank sits in. I'm not sure he blurts things out and I just nod...this type of job is over my head thats why I brought it to a professional. As far as we can tell so far the rods seem good to go. the cylinder walls look smooth at least from what we can see from underneath.
I guess once we...I mean he takes a look at the main bearings I should know how to proceed. few questions for all the gear heads out there.
1. is it possible to have connecting rod bearing damage and no main bearing damage.
2. If I have no main bearing damage is there any need to repalce the crank?
3. If I have main bearing damage but it is very minimal should I get it machined and go with fatter(thicker) bearings or just get a new crank. Cranks are around $850 brand new.
Again the bearings never spun. They are damaged and NOT smooth like Jessica Alba's ass.
Anyway I was impressed with my friends work. He had the parts all laid out in these stainless steel trays and he went over all the parts and took a good 30 minutes to walk me thru and show and explain all the parts to me.
While its there I am having him replace the clutch , new brake pads and rotors, 4 new tires and a new secondary air pump. I supply all the parts he does the labor.
I pay him cash I get mega discount. He gets a car to work on my car at his leisure while he tries to build his customer base and get the business off the ground.
Just thought I'd share this with you all. I get lots of Info from S2ki.com so I thought I return the favor.
I'm surprised me Engine lasted this long. I beat the livving day lights out of My s2000. Nitrous....crazy drag strip runs (200 plus runs ; Ganley honda did an awesome job with the 4.77 gear install)....wicked mountain runs where it never drops below vtec for 30 minute clips, wicked down shifts!. I try to check the oil often but I have to admit its been down a quart ever so often(but never more than a quart). The car owes me nothing! Its amazing It lasted this long.
53,000 miles on the odo!
What a great car! Can't wait to get behind the wheel again and break something else
As long as its not me
Originally Posted by darkfx,Jun 15 2006, 07:15 PM
get the updated oil banjo bolts if you havent got them already
Originally Posted by fperra,Jun 15 2006, 06:35 PM
With your rebuild you might want to add an '05 or '06 oil pump.
Originally Posted by ItalianBucwheat,Jun 15 2006, 06:36 PM
Hmmmm. Whats the difference between and 04-05 and a 02 oil pump? Thanks for the heads up!
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I have seen damaged rod bearings with perfect main bearings in my engine.
If the crank is not damaged just replace the bearings. Honda makes stock bearings in several thicknesses. If the crank is damaged have a reputable high performance machine shop turn the crank and supply the bearings.
More importantly, you must discover the root cause of the problem.
Review the slides on this link to assist in proper diagnosis:
http://engineparts.com/products/bear...iles/frame.htm
After making the proper diagnosis, correct the problem (i.e. bearing clearance, oil starvation (due to low oil level?), overloading (due to detonation?)), etc.
The proper diagnosis and corrective action will ensure that it never happens again.
I hope this helps.
Greenlight
If the crank is not damaged just replace the bearings. Honda makes stock bearings in several thicknesses. If the crank is damaged have a reputable high performance machine shop turn the crank and supply the bearings.
More importantly, you must discover the root cause of the problem.
Review the slides on this link to assist in proper diagnosis:
http://engineparts.com/products/bear...iles/frame.htm
After making the proper diagnosis, correct the problem (i.e. bearing clearance, oil starvation (due to low oil level?), overloading (due to detonation?)), etc.
The proper diagnosis and corrective action will ensure that it never happens again.
I hope this helps.
Greenlight
Thank you GreenLight. That web site was very interesting. I'm slide # 32 for cyl.#2,3 &4 with #3 being the worst. Thats what my bearings look like! The #1 cyl. looks like a prior slide with wear just starting.
So slide #32 is oil Starvation.
My mechanic said the same thing you said that he has seen connecting rod bearings shot and the mains are fine. So I'll have to see when he gets that far.
I have 53,000 mile and I just counted my oil change slips at 13....!st. oil change at 5K w/conventional then another at 8300k w/convention then synthetic for the rest of the changes, about 4k between changes all with Penzsoil!
It was low a few times but never more than a quart. But there have been a handful of times I was down a full quart.But a quart is a quart and low a quart with wicked turns might be enough for the feed to suck air and then blow air thru the pump...I'm sure it doesn't take long to do damage.
I ordered the new oil bolts and maybe for safety i'll replace the oil pump can't hurt anything but my wallet!...LOL
Thank you again for the info
So slide #32 is oil Starvation.
My mechanic said the same thing you said that he has seen connecting rod bearings shot and the mains are fine. So I'll have to see when he gets that far.
I have 53,000 mile and I just counted my oil change slips at 13....!st. oil change at 5K w/conventional then another at 8300k w/convention then synthetic for the rest of the changes, about 4k between changes all with Penzsoil!
It was low a few times but never more than a quart. But there have been a handful of times I was down a full quart.But a quart is a quart and low a quart with wicked turns might be enough for the feed to suck air and then blow air thru the pump...I'm sure it doesn't take long to do damage.
I ordered the new oil bolts and maybe for safety i'll replace the oil pump can't hurt anything but my wallet!...LOL
Thank you again for the info
Originally Posted by darkfx,Jun 15 2006, 11:11 PM
Throw in a 2.2L crank and rods also, lol



