latelifecrisis

I've finally stripped my engine after going through this debacle:

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...dvise-1207532/

It turns out that my thrust washer on the front side of the 4th crank journal doesn't exist (anymore). This occurred less than 900 miles after I bought the short block new from Honda. My guess is that trust washer was installed backwards (or not at all) from the factory.

'm trying to forge a path forward to resurrect this car. It's a spa yellow 2007 with about 40k miles on it.

It appears that the upper and lower block are toast from the crank rubbing on them. The crank may be unusable too, but I have a second crank that I can check if its good. If not, I'm willing to buy a new crank. I have a complete cylinder head with less than 900 miles on it that is in near new condition. The cylinder bores from this latest engine are all size A as marked on the top of the block and the four pistons all have no size mark so I assume they are size A. II know I need to confirm that pistons are correct diameter. I also have 4 pistons and connecting rods from a previous engine - don't ask why please...

It looks like I can purchase a new OEM upper and lower block assembly (AP2) for about $2800 delivered.

I'm seriously considering doing this and rebuilding my engine with the remaining parts I have. A few questions:

1. If I buy the upper/lower block, I assume I need to match the piston sizes (A or B) to the stampings on the new block, right?
2. Is it just a crap shoot when I buy the new block whether pistons 1 through 4 are size A or B. Both my original engine and the one that crapped out at 900 miles used size A pistons exclusively.
3. I have the factory manual, I can follow directions carefully, I have outside and inside micrometers and dial indicator as needed, I'm willing to carefully measure and plastigage as per manual. I've read several times on this forum that trying to rebuild these engines is not for the faint of heart and doesn't result in long term success on a regular basis. Am I stupid to attempt this? If so, why am I likely to fail? My goal would be to have a stock engine that would be reliable for 50k+ miles.
4. If I don't rebuild this F22C engine, does it make sense to try a K24 swap? After all I've been through, I'm pretty leery of buying a used engine without knowing it's condition.

Thanks

umair

I got screwed on a used engine as well and I don't plan on buying another used engine for over 5k. Its sad that you cannot trust people now days. The best solution i have planned is to dry sleeve the engine and keep the compression ratio as close to stock as possible. I am not sure if you can use an oem piston on a dry sleeve.

What are your thoughts on a dry sleeve setup for your engine? It sure beats paying an arm and a leg again imo.

B serious

You also have trouble with a brand new engine, right? No learyness about that path?

I think I recommended this to you before...but buy a used, factory assembled engine from a reputable source, using a credit card.

latelifecrisis

With the scoring to the block that I have from the crank, my block is not usable.

B serious

So...just for trying to help with root causing some of your issues and helping with a recommendation..

what started all this off? why all the replacement engines?

latelifecrisis

That's a potentially viable option. Do you have any leads or suggestions on where to look?

latelifecrisis

First engine (original in car) had a coolant leak which I caught early (coolant temp gauge never made it past 2/3), fixed the leak (temporarily as it turned out), filled radiator with water. Later on the road I kept a close eye on the coolant temperature gauge. Never saw it budge from normal. Going up a hill engine started knocking. Stopped immediately and shut off engine. It turned out to be almost empty of coolant. Head and upper block warped beyond service limits.

I considered my options to rebuild that engine, but since cylinder head and upper block were warped beyond repair, I took the plunge and bought brand new OEM complete cyclinder head and short block from Honda. About $10k at the time. After 900 miles, engine oil pressure light came on. Shut off engine took it to Honda dealer who removed oil pan and they discovered that the thrust washer on the front side of the fourth crank journal was gone and crank was rubbing on upper and lower block. Unfortunately, I had an aftermarket ACT pressure plate (was contemplating SOS supercharger after engine break in) and I had install done by independent, not Honda. Two mistakes on my part. Bottom lin e is I'm trying to find the best path forward to bring this car back to life.

I'm willing to consider all reasonable options, but I'd also like responses to my original questions posed on this post.

Thanks

Slowcrash_101

So you need a block and a crankshaft, the head is ok? You can get a used block and crankshaft for like $2,000, engines are going for like $6,500. If your rods and pistons are ok, you can reuse them. Honda is having a hard time shipping parts right now.

B serious

A-Solutions auto's eBay store.
H motors online.
LKQ.

See if you find something with a warranty. Test and then install it without voiding the warranty.

I would try and find a good , factory assembled engine. Don't open it up.

The rate of success for engine rebuilds is low. And Honda's not going to warranty a block that's been put together with used parts from an another engine...especially one that has already had a failure. You're also just taking too many chances in that case.

K24 swaps are a good avenue to seek. These engines are still a dime a dozen. Since you want to boost it...you're going to have problems later down the road. Better to have problems with a K series than a F series.

Jub

Lee C parts on ebay is a reputable part-out company and has blocks come up every so often. They'll at least compression test them and sometimes leakdown as well. I've never bought such a big part but they've been honest on all parts I've bought so far. They'll also actually answer the phone, talk to you, and check on the part for you.

ASMotorsports had a block for sale a few weeks back for a great price. It sold within a day though. He posted it on Instagram and I'm not sure where else.

I'm torn on the K v. F to boost. F series internals are stronger and hold up better to boost if you're starting from a good place. The other thing to consider when moving to a K series is if you need to and can make it emissions compliant. K's will definitely be cheaper in the years to come, initial cost, parts, and rebuilds.