Engine running post valve adjustment -- someone mind having a listen
This might be too difficult to assess like this, so I'll understand if I get no feedback 
I did a valve adjustment the other day, and did come across a few valves that were too tight (both sides). And because I'm a bit paranoid and OCD about my car, I would feel way better if someone knowledgeable could have a listen and let me know if this sounds good/bad/undetermined.
thanks in advance

I did a valve adjustment the other day, and did come across a few valves that were too tight (both sides). And because I'm a bit paranoid and OCD about my car, I would feel way better if someone knowledgeable could have a listen and let me know if this sounds good/bad/undetermined.
thanks in advance
The damage that valves that were too tight causes is burnt valves. Burnt valves won't cause noise, neither pre nor post adjustment.
What they will cause is lost compression. Do a compression test, post results here for assistance. If questionable results, a leakdown test will confirm if valves are leaking.
Valves that are too tight are quiet. Properly adjusted valves make some noise. So don't freak if its not as quiet as before.
What they will cause is lost compression. Do a compression test, post results here for assistance. If questionable results, a leakdown test will confirm if valves are leaking.
Valves that are too tight are quiet. Properly adjusted valves make some noise. So don't freak if its not as quiet as before.
On a car that has never had the valves adjusted, it is common to see looser intake valves. The fact that yours were tight is an indicator someone adjusted them before you did. That can be a good thing.
engine sound may not reveal much. You can get a better perspective on your adjustments when you go back and check them at a later date, I would double check your work to be sure. You will get a better opinion of your work checking it over at a later date. I find it useful when second guessing my work.
I set both sides to their loosest, so intake 0.25mm and exhaust 0.29mm. But then when listening, of course I wondered if it is TOO loose.
And ya, I guess I'll double-check them after I've driven it a couple times, for the peace of mind. But honestly that job was NOT as fun and easy as I thought it would be. I mean, it's straightforward WHAT to do, but there's an art to it that was eluding me and I was mostly getting pissed off. I was never 100% confident that I set it exactly right, as the gauge would feel 'good' one time, and then the next too tight/loose... even without adjusting the screw.
Oh and that f'n heat shield.
And ya, I guess I'll double-check them after I've driven it a couple times, for the peace of mind. But honestly that job was NOT as fun and easy as I thought it would be. I mean, it's straightforward WHAT to do, but there's an art to it that was eluding me and I was mostly getting pissed off. I was never 100% confident that I set it exactly right, as the gauge would feel 'good' one time, and then the next too tight/loose... even without adjusting the screw.
Oh and that f'n heat shield.
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Use the thicker feeler and tighten the screw so it clamps down and doesn't allow the gauge to move, and tighten the locknut. Then the feeler that is one size thinner will be a perfect fit. Much less guessing with that technique and very consistent between cylinders. I just did my 96 Prelude with this technique and I find it works flawlessly. It is much easier than trying to get the perfect feel/drag.
Use the thicker feeler and tighten the screw so it clamps down and doesn't allow the gauge to move, and tighten the locknut. Then the feeler that is one size thinner will be a perfect fit. Much less guessing with that technique and very consistent between cylinders. I just did my 96 Prelude with this technique and I find it works flawlessly. It is much easier than trying to get the perfect feel/drag.












