Engine stalls at red lights
I have a 2001 SSM with about 176k now.
Only cosmetic mods to the car.
History:
Recently refinished the whole head due to a dropped valve that stuck itself in the guide.
-Head redone (sandblasted, hot bath)
-AP2 retainers and valves
-New Head gasket, obv.
-failing ECU with P1607 DTC
So after the whole dropped valve ordeal, I got the car back and it ran perfectly for about a week then the car started going into limp mode randomly and wouldn't let me rev past 3000 RPMs.
I searched online and found out it could be Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit failure also confirmed with OBD2 scanner. But wasn't completely sure yet so I bought a used 2004 ECU on ebay to correct the P1607. Code was still there. But the limp mode went away.
About 2 weeks later, car started stalling out when I came to a red light. It varies on every stop, (it would die right away, it would take a couple minutes to die) but the odd thing is if I kept my foot on the gas to rev to about 1500 and keep it there, it wouldn't die.
Frustrated I looked online to try out couple of different things like cleaning IACV with carb cleaner, Taking motor off of IACV to clean the rotary valve til it span freely due to sticking, checked spark plugs, bought a SECOND ECU, checked all the vacuum lines no leaks from what I can tell, cleaned the mini air filter on the valve bypass assembly, same issue.
NOTE: The car drives fine, engages VTEC fine, revs fine throughout, I can drive long distances but as soon as I stop to idle, it can sporadically shut off and turn on again.
So to sum up:
Things I've done:
-Checked spark plugs
-Checked vacuum hoses
-Cleaned IACV
-Cleaned IACV rotary valve
-Cleaned mini air filter on valve bypass assembly
-Changed ECU twice
-MAP "tap"
-Swapped out all new coil packs
-Reset ECU several times
Things I Plan On Doing:
-Check Timing
-New MAP sensor
-New IACV
-Remove throttle body and clean the MAP hole
-Set car on fire
If you have any ideas, please chime in. All suggestions are greatly appreciated, no seriously.
Only cosmetic mods to the car.
History:
Recently refinished the whole head due to a dropped valve that stuck itself in the guide.
-Head redone (sandblasted, hot bath)
-AP2 retainers and valves
-New Head gasket, obv.
-failing ECU with P1607 DTC
So after the whole dropped valve ordeal, I got the car back and it ran perfectly for about a week then the car started going into limp mode randomly and wouldn't let me rev past 3000 RPMs.
I searched online and found out it could be Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit failure also confirmed with OBD2 scanner. But wasn't completely sure yet so I bought a used 2004 ECU on ebay to correct the P1607. Code was still there. But the limp mode went away.
About 2 weeks later, car started stalling out when I came to a red light. It varies on every stop, (it would die right away, it would take a couple minutes to die) but the odd thing is if I kept my foot on the gas to rev to about 1500 and keep it there, it wouldn't die.
Frustrated I looked online to try out couple of different things like cleaning IACV with carb cleaner, Taking motor off of IACV to clean the rotary valve til it span freely due to sticking, checked spark plugs, bought a SECOND ECU, checked all the vacuum lines no leaks from what I can tell, cleaned the mini air filter on the valve bypass assembly, same issue.
NOTE: The car drives fine, engages VTEC fine, revs fine throughout, I can drive long distances but as soon as I stop to idle, it can sporadically shut off and turn on again.
So to sum up:
Things I've done:
-Checked spark plugs
-Checked vacuum hoses
-Cleaned IACV
-Cleaned IACV rotary valve
-Cleaned mini air filter on valve bypass assembly
-Changed ECU twice
-MAP "tap"
-Swapped out all new coil packs
-Reset ECU several times
Things I Plan On Doing:
-Check Timing
-New MAP sensor
-New IACV
-Remove throttle body and clean the MAP hole
-Set car on fire
If you have any ideas, please chime in. All suggestions are greatly appreciated, no seriously.
Could be a weak alternator putting too much stress on engine. After a long idle the radiator fans will turn causing alternator to increase amperage. Thus causing a stall. Check your battery voltage with the car on
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Does the light come on right away after you clear the code or do you drive for a little before it comes up?
I would also say check the alternator first. And check all of the pins on the connector to the ECU to make sure no wires or loose or any of the pins are bent.
I would also say check the alternator first. And check all of the pins on the connector to the ECU to make sure no wires or loose or any of the pins are bent.
Thanks for the reply, probably gonna pull the alternator next weekend to have it checked although it's quite random when my car decides to shut off or not. Like I'll get up in the morning to go to work and turn the car on and sometimes it'll stay on for a good 5 minutes or sometimes it'll stay on for a couple minutes then the car shuts off...This is my fourth s2000 and I have never experienced anything like this.
Does the light come on right away after you clear the code or do you drive for a little before it comes up?
I would also say check the alternator first. And check all of the pins on the connector to the ECU to make sure no wires or loose or any of the pins are bent.
I would also say check the alternator first. And check all of the pins on the connector to the ECU to make sure no wires or loose or any of the pins are bent.
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brian87108
UK & Ireland S2000 Community
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Mar 29, 2015 10:45 PM



