S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Engine Tear Down Help Needed!

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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 05:17 AM
  #11  
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Here is a picture of cylinder 4.

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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 05:19 AM
  #12  
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I would personally not entertain the TODA idea..... Toda have not produced any quality stuff lately.... cams shafts failing, header brackets breaking and worst of all there was no warranty granted. Just a thought.
Beroz
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 05:29 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by beroznikmal,Jul 12 2004, 07:19 AM
I would personally not entertain the TODA idea..... Toda have not produced any quality stuff lately.... cams shafts failing, header brackets breaking and worst of all there was no warranty granted. Just a thought.
Beroz
So far, I haven't recommended against buying Toda stuff (even though I am one of the people that had a set of their camshafts fail). The only reason that I haven't been against it is because most of the failures have either been superficial (like the header bracket) or they did not resulted in any damage (like most of the reported camshaft failures). However, considering the fact that one user recently reported that his camshaft failure resulted in engine damage, and considering the fact that the stroker kit would be much more likely to cause damage if it failed... I'm going to agree w/ Beroz on this one and recommend that you don't go with the Toda route if you can't afford to have another engine on standby in case the parts fail.

My questions is: Why do you need a whole new short block? Is it not possible to simply get this one re-sleeved?
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 05:35 AM
  #14  
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I've been told that re-sleeving can't be done on this engine.

If it can be done, what sort of costs would I be looking at?

It would be an ideal solution as I could reduce the compression a little and add boost.

I've heard that sleeved engines can handle more pressure.

Kevin
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 05:38 AM
  #15  
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what oil was in the engine when this happened?

any speculation on what causes this failure? lack of lubrication at sustained high speed?

this is one of the reason I changed to baffled oil pan...to hopefully avoid this..since it seems even with the oil jets updated, the lubrication can still fail to get to all the places.

when I have asked for some TODA parts at a tuning shop in Japan, they just laughed...because of several issues...including the cams.
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 05:46 AM
  #16  
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I'm pretty sure the problem was sustained high speed.

I was doing about 165MPH in Germany, and when I slowed down I had this ticking noise.

The oil bolts had been done, and the oil changed recently.

I was returning from Italy a +/- 3000 Km trip, on the way down I exceeded 155MPH a few times with no problems.

When in Italy I checked all the fluids and all was OK, no oil usage at all.

I suppose that last run was just to much, I was trying for 170MPH which I would have got had the traffic not stopped me.

Kevin
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 05:48 AM
  #17  
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A company on the east coast will re sleeve for $1700 this does not include the pistons and rods if needed... I would say the total would come out to ~$3000...

At this point I think it is more important to do some forensics and try to determine what happened, why the engine failed.... I suspect the oil pump pressure was dropping little by little as the car was increasing in speed (basically reached is max output capability, plain saturation).... If this is the case I do not see how resleeving and going with lower compression pistons would fix this problem (assuming you still intend to travel at the same speed in the future). If you are not planning to add boost I would go with the stock OEM short block and maybe do some research on an upgraded oil pump.......
Beroz
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 05:48 AM
  #18  
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why don't you buy an used engine and just replace the part that is borken which saves you a lot of money... I could get an used engine for $2800 USD in Taiwan.. I believe you could get one around this price too..
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 06:06 AM
  #19  
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I had planned on fitting an upgraded oil pump which ever route I chose.

Are they readily available?

I intend to re-fit the SC on the new short block so I just want to avoid the same problem again.

I've read that this problem mainly occurs on early model S2000's (mine is MY2000), so maybe I only need the better oil pump, and can go with the stock internals.

I probably won't drive like this all the time, but it's nice to be able to once in a while when the oppurtunity presents itself.

Kevin
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 06:13 AM
  #20  
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if you are going to change the pump...change the pan and fit an oil pressure gauge whilst you are at it and decent filter + higher spec oil. This is the recommended route by the high performance tuners in Japan...their engines fail around Suzuka without the oil mods.
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