Please update everyone on the oil pump to choose... I would be interested in this....
THanks
Beroz

 

that block looks salvageable. just have the cylinders bored out and use oversized pistons.

 

I had #4 cylinder damage on my turboed S. The problem was the engine sat for 4 months during the install. The oil had drained from the piston rings.

Golden Eagle charges $3800 for ductile Iron sleves, New JE pistons and rings (made to whatever compression that you want), and new Crowner rods. They will even balance the rotating mass after the install of the new internals.

They will tell you that it will take 6 weeks to do the work. Mine took 3.5 months. I would try to pay half up front to cover cost of parts, and the other half when the engine is complete.

Good luck!

 

HeCash,

Thanks for the info, but my main concern is if I just put back what was originally there I might have the same problem again.

Is it true the new short block is stonger than the original?

If not, then I assume to stop a re-occurence I need to do something about the oil feed to reduce the engine temperature at high operating loads.

I suppose I could achieve this by a higher performance oil pump or some form of oil cooler.

I thought the oil pump would be the neater solution.

Does anyone know whether an uprated oil pump is available for the S2000?

Kevin

 

Kevin,

The problem isn't the oil bolts or the other spark plugs,because you had the problem with your 2000 and I have got the problem with my 02 then.
I also don't think they have changed the short block.
the only thing you can do is when you but back on the sc is

1) change the oil pan
2) get a oil press meter
3) get a air/feull meter
4) get the better oil

then you allready can keep an eye on your feull and oil.

regards Antoine

 

Anyone ever thought about adding some preload (add a small spacer with the same outter diameter ) to the spring in the oil pump relief valve? I was wondering about doing it myself but I dont want oil pressure to be so high that it just blows through my turbo even with the reducer

Or even increasing the oil capacity would help out tons. A oil cooler would add anywhere from .3qts to whatever. Not to mention keep the oil nice and thick which bumps up pressure and keeps the oil from running out at the pick-up area.

Definately look into baffling your oil pan. Be sure to have it welded everywhere not just small spot welds. The cast aluminum is so dirty it's hard to get a good lasting weld.

 

BTW, fluidyne makes nice bar/plate oil coolers. They are better than the traditional tube/fin coolers most companies utilize. Plus the fit is pretty good and you can easily fab up some brackets. You will need either a oil relocation unit or a adapter to feed the oil to the cooler.

 

Anyone have any thoughts on shimming the oil pump spring? I'm getting ready to put my sleeved engine together and was considering this.