I used to be active on S2ki about 10 years ago (and changed emails so I can't reset my old login info, oops!), but all has been well until now.

At first, engine would run and drive fine, but would stumble when the clutch pedal was depressed. Basically the engine would lug from the pressure exerted on the crank by the clutch pressure. Then, the engine would not turn over easily - starter struggled to get the engine spinning. Bump-starting worked, but was extremely difficult. The engine felt like it had to break loose, and would rev fine but struggled to idle, especially when the clutch was disengaged. After a few miles, the engine died at idle, out of gear, clutch pedal not pressed (true neutral). Bump-started again, engine struggled to break loose again and ran a bit rough down low, but still revved out okay. Parked the car, killed the engine, changed the oil and charged the battery overnight (oil is settling in a clean pan and oil filter is draining to be cut open later). With fresh oil and a topped-off battery, the engine turned over and fired, but struggled to run at all, felt like it was over-loaded and struggling, and would not rev out properly (lugging/struggling did not change with RPM, but the roughness increased in magnitude). Dash cluster became a light show. Turned the engine off, let it settle for a bit, then tried again - same story, engine won't hold idle, struggles to keep itself turning, sounds like it's lugging at all RPMs, higher RPM makes shaking stronger but not faster.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what is going on and/or how to fix this? It would be greatly appreciated!

 

Is there a check engine light on? Just turn the ignition on and use an OBD2 reader to pull any codes. Depending on what comes back if anything (I assume there has to be something if the cluster "became a light show"). A few guesses are some bad sensors like IVAC, or MAP sensors that are bad or dirty. Bad spark plugs and or coil packs. Clogged or bad injectors. O2 Sensors dirty or bad. I list keeps going and going so pull the codes and that may at least give you a place to start. Also STOP trying to drive or start it.

 

Edit: The check engine light did not come on with just the ignition INITIALLY. It is currently now on after the last time we tried to start it.

Yes, we will definitely pull the codes. I was just hoping that someone might know what is causing this/had this happen before to them....

 

If the problem gets worse by pressing on the clutch you may have a trashed thrust bearing. To confirm, you could drain the oil and check for metal flakes. If this is your problem do not run the engine until you get it replaced.

 

This could explain the lugging at all RPMS possible and we are going to pull the switch off tonight and take a look and probably replace it if needed. BUT we don't think it would explain the initial issue (not starting, rough idle, then dying).

OR are we completely off and this is the entire problem? Any feedback would be helpful!


We did drain the oil and there were no obvious flakes in it. But yes, I suppose it could be that. But would that alone make the car just die like it did?

 

Yes, a thrust bearing failure can make a car die.

Could also be a failing throw out bearing. The throw out bearing is always spinning as soon as you start the car. But there is more pressure on it with the pedal pushed.

 

Blah.....well neither of those sound like good things. Guess we'll see what happens when we replace/fix the VTEC switch....

 

Pull off the entire vtec solenoid from the head and check the screen in the gasket for debris.

 

Lol...if it were a bad engine or throw out bearing, you'd sell the car for parts??? Sure, I would buy it.

 

I believe your vtec switch problem is the result of low oil pressure, which falls in line with a thrust bearing problem. For whatever reason, it seems to be more common with 06-09 S2000s.

If it idles ok, and the engine abruptly dies when you depress the clutch pedal, chances are very high that the thrust bearing has failed. This usually does not bode well for the rest of the engine.

Your first step should be an oil pressure test. Remove the oil psi switch under the vtec valve, and measure the pressure.

I think you will be needing a short block. Provided you dont blow it up, the cylinder head and all upper components will be unharmed and can be moved to the new block.