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EPS Help

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Old Dec 12, 2021 | 03:49 PM
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Default EPS Help

Greetings,

Apologies that this might be a little lengthy.

Trying to diagnose an EPS issue that just presented itself. Just replaced the pads and rotors and went out for a bedding process. Couple of hard stops from 40 mph and felt way better than the drilled/slotted rotors that came on the car when I purchased it. No more vibrations when braking. Pulled back to the house and shut off the car. Went inside. About 20 minutes or so later, came back out and started the car and the EPS light was on. Did a few google search's and found the EPS reset procedures. Followed the steps and originally presented with what I believe, fault codes 22 and 27? I don't recall and we didn't write it down. It was a little late in the evening so just put it back in the garage for the night. Searched on the forum as well as the FB groups (Honda S2000 Group & S2K Tech and Talk) and was reading all sorts of issues that could present itself. Here's what we've done so far.

Tested battery. Good tests
Battery terminals tight with no corrosion.
Tested alternated. Good test
Alternator cable/connectors good/tight with no corrosion.
70A fuse is good.
EPS module does not have any corrosion or debris on/around it.
Cluster lights/interior lights do not flicker or show any signs of low power
ABS fuse is good (saw a previous thread where the ABS fuse in the bay is also tied to EPS; maybe?)
Jacked front end up and looked for signs of loose/broken grounds. All look and appear to be tight.
Unplugged the 3 plugs from the EPS module, connector from rack and connector from TS along with battery terminal. Let it sit that way for about an hour. Plugged everything back up. All connectors are clean and clear with no signs of debris or corrosion. They all 'click' when being connected again. Went to do the EPS reset and now presented with code 37; which I believe is motor voltage. I've found the pdf for diagnosing DTC code 37 which I will do tomorrow evening.

But as far as why the EPS light came on, is it normal for it to come on after doing a bedding procedure? I've read where random things can cause it to come on, but usually resolves itself with either driving or the reset. (I actually drove it a few miles to see if it would go away) Car is not heavily modded. 04 with 132K with just intake and exhaust.

Everything was working fine before the brake pad change and bedding. And even up until coming into the driveway, there was no EPS light nor loss of PS. Haven't messed with anything electrical other than plugging in a radio (it does have some wires dangling but they are wrapped in electrical tape) which i highly doubt it would cause that light to come on. Hasn't been driven in rain since my ownership nor driven over shitty roads. I'm basically at a loss here as to what to try next (other than diagnosing the code 37). I'd like to obviously know what I'd need before going out and buying another EPS module or anything else. Any insight or suggestions is greatly appreciated.
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Old Jan 4, 2022 | 09:13 PM
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hmm.. anyone?
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Old Jan 10, 2022 | 05:57 PM
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As you might have guess from the lack of replies, this is not a common issue. In fact I have never had an issue bedding a new set of pads causing any EPS issues. From what you initially did with the pads, I don't see where you touched anything that would have crossed with the EPS system at all, other then the EPS and brakes are on the same axle. Sounds like you are following a TS procedure for the 37 code. That should help you.
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Old Jan 10, 2022 | 07:42 PM
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Seems like you just bought the car recently?

Hsve you tried asking the PO if they had EPS issues?
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Old Jan 10, 2022 | 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by B serious
Seems like you just bought the car recently?

Hsve you tried asking the PO if they had EPS issues?
EPS was not on when purchased nor did it present itself after a month of ownership prior to the bedding process.



Originally Posted by Stratocaster
As you might have guess from the lack of replies, this is not a common issue. In fact I have never had an issue bedding a new set of pads causing any EPS issues. From what you initially did with the pads, I don't see where you touched anything that would have crossed with the EPS system at all, other then the EPS and brakes are on the same axle. Sounds like you are following a TS procedure for the 37 code. That should help you.
Yeah, that's what I'm leaning towards. Doesn't seem common at all but I'm at the point of tracing wires. The pdf guide is a little confusing, but i'll have to check the harness. The only thing I can even think of is that the battery tie down was loose and battery could've moved and potentially hit the hood or moved enough to hit the module, but that still doesn't lead me to believe that's the case since the light never appeared until I restarted the car again.
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Old Jan 11, 2022 | 04:25 AM
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Originally Posted by rdotdan
EPS was not on when purchased nor did it present itself after a month of ownership prior to the bedding process.





Yeah, that's what I'm leaning towards. Doesn't seem common at all but I'm at the point of tracing wires. The pdf guide is a little confusing, but i'll have to check the harness. The only thing I can even think of is that the battery tie down was loose and battery could've moved and potentially hit the hood or moved enough to hit the module, but that still doesn't lead me to believe that's the case since the light never appeared until I restarted the car again.
Any chance of a poor ground connection?
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Old Jan 11, 2022 | 04:50 AM
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Or maybe the PO replaced something that may give you some insight.
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Old Jan 11, 2022 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by B serious
Or maybe the PO replaced something that may give you some insight.
I second B-Serious. It's not out of the realm of possibilities that when they tried to "put it back to stock", something wasn't tightened properly or some wires were not as secure as they are from the factory. The brake bedding process might have jarred some stuff.
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Old Jan 12, 2022 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by -=Zeqs=-
I second B-Serious. It's not out of the realm of possibilities that when they tried to "put it back to stock", something wasn't tightened properly or some wires were not as secure as they are from the factory. The brake bedding process might have jarred some stuff.

That’s what I’m thinking, but I’ve checked the harness and ground and they are all tight with no corrosion.

Since it’s throwing dtc 37 which translates to motor voltage, I wonder if the actual module is fried? I’d hate to buy one and it still doesn’t fix the issue. Is there a way to test the module itself on the bench or?
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Old Jan 12, 2022 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by windhund116
Any chance of a poor ground connection?
I checked over the grounds and they look fine. Tight and no corrosion. That was one of my theories as well.

Originally Posted by B serious
Or maybe the PO replaced something that may give you some insight.
Quite possibly as half assed this car was. I don’t believe I broke anything when doing the brakes and I doubt there is anything down or around there that would cause it. There’s no ABS errors or anything. Kinda sucks trying to park lol
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