EPS Reset: tires on ground or in air?
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Joined: Jul 2021
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From: Madison, WI
EPS Reset: tires on ground or in air?
This is probably a dumb question, but when re-setting the EPS sensor, do you turn the wheel 45 degrees with the tires on the ground or in the air? It's kinda hard to turn the wheel that much with the car off. Do you hold it there? If you don't, it tends to spring back.
One more question about the procedure: pins 4 + 9 for a 2000 USDM car, yes? I read somewhere that different markets might have different pin configurations.
Background: my EPS is wonky. It's easy to turn right, hard to turn left. When I let go of the wheel at low speed, the car turns right on its own. It's not an alignment or wheel/tire pressure issue. No EPS light on. I re-greased the torque sensor (that was a big job for me!) It didn't look that bad. But I still thoroughly flushed it with contact cleaner, compressed air, and packed as much Honda Urea grease as I could into the little pin slots. This did not fix the issue.
Link to the reset procedure: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-irela...reset-1153945/
One more question about the procedure: pins 4 + 9 for a 2000 USDM car, yes? I read somewhere that different markets might have different pin configurations.
Background: my EPS is wonky. It's easy to turn right, hard to turn left. When I let go of the wheel at low speed, the car turns right on its own. It's not an alignment or wheel/tire pressure issue. No EPS light on. I re-greased the torque sensor (that was a big job for me!) It didn't look that bad. But I still thoroughly flushed it with contact cleaner, compressed air, and packed as much Honda Urea grease as I could into the little pin slots. This did not fix the issue.
Link to the reset procedure: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-irela...reset-1153945/
Apparently you need a Honda PGM tester... but there's an easier way 
http://www.ozhonda.c...ead.php?t=67113
Follow this guide to short the SCS connector (just get a paperclip) but not straight away! The manual shows how to do it with the Honda PGM tester but this is the method using just a SCS short - basically the same method but to start it, is slightly different.
I take no liability blah blah haha.. taken straight from the manual
1. Align your wheels so they're facing straight.
2. Short the SCS circuit as per the linked guide above.
3. Turn the steering wheel 45 degrees to the left from the straight ahead position, and hold it in that position.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (III). The EPS indicator comes on, then it goes off after 4 seconds.
5. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator goes off, return the steering wheel to the straight ahead driving position and release the steering wheel. The EPS indicator will come on again 4 seconds after releasing the steering wheel.
5. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator comes on, turn the steering wheel to the left45 degree position and hold the steering wheel. The EPS indicator will turn off again after 4 seconds.
6. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator goes off, return the steering wheel to the straight ahead driving position and release the steering wheel. Do not move the steering wheel before turning the ignition switch OFF.
NOTE: If the steering wheel is moved, the torque sensor neutral position cannot be written to memory.
7. The EPS indicator blinks twice 4 seconds after releasing the steering wheel, then it blinks three times 5 seconds after. Then, the indicator goes off. The torque sensor neutral position is memorized.
NOTE: If the EPS indicator stays on, there was an error in wrting the torque sensor neutral position to memory. Repeat the procedure from the start.
8. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
9. Disconnect the SCS short.
http://www.ozhonda.c...ead.php?t=67113
Follow this guide to short the SCS connector (just get a paperclip) but not straight away! The manual shows how to do it with the Honda PGM tester but this is the method using just a SCS short - basically the same method but to start it, is slightly different.
I take no liability blah blah haha.. taken straight from the manual
1. Align your wheels so they're facing straight.
2. Short the SCS circuit as per the linked guide above.
3. Turn the steering wheel 45 degrees to the left from the straight ahead position, and hold it in that position.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (III). The EPS indicator comes on, then it goes off after 4 seconds.
5. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator goes off, return the steering wheel to the straight ahead driving position and release the steering wheel. The EPS indicator will come on again 4 seconds after releasing the steering wheel.
5. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator comes on, turn the steering wheel to the left45 degree position and hold the steering wheel. The EPS indicator will turn off again after 4 seconds.
6. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator goes off, return the steering wheel to the straight ahead driving position and release the steering wheel. Do not move the steering wheel before turning the ignition switch OFF.
NOTE: If the steering wheel is moved, the torque sensor neutral position cannot be written to memory.
7. The EPS indicator blinks twice 4 seconds after releasing the steering wheel, then it blinks three times 5 seconds after. Then, the indicator goes off. The torque sensor neutral position is memorized.
NOTE: If the EPS indicator stays on, there was an error in wrting the torque sensor neutral position to memory. Repeat the procedure from the start.
8. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
9. Disconnect the SCS short.
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Chesterfield VA
On the pavement!! Needs to have resistance. I turned the steering wheel back and forth a couple of times while "in the air" and it took me a coupe of hours to get the EPS reset. Don't repeat my mistake!
-- Chuck
-- Chuck
Last edited by Chuck S; Jul 3, 2022 at 08:47 AM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 235
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From: Madison, WI
Well, something's not right. Maybe I'm making a mistake. When I turn the wheel left the second time, the EPS light doesn't go off after 4 seconds. It starts blinking...
At least it didn't screw anything up. The steering seems a bit better after re-greasing the torque sensor, but still not correct.
At least it didn't screw anything up. The steering seems a bit better after re-greasing the torque sensor, but still not correct.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 235
Likes: 81
From: Madison, WI
Thank you for posting the video. I was slightly mis-reading the directions... I was able to reset the position (two blinks + three) but it didn't fix my problem. I can turn the wheel to the right with a couple fingers as shown at the end of the video. Turning left requires my hand.
Does this mean my torque sensor is just bad and needs to be replaced? Or could it be something else?
Does this mean my torque sensor is just bad and needs to be replaced? Or could it be something else?
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It helps to understand how the TQ sensor works. There's a torsion bar that compresses a spring, the spring is connected to a plastic slip ring. The plastic slip ring is held in place by a metal pin that goes through the torsion bar. When the spring moves the slip ring, it moves vertically which tells the ECM how much steering assist to give you.
The plastic slip ring can become gouged by the metal pin if the grease dries up, once that happens you will need a new unit. This is because instead of sliding on the grooves on a layer of grease, the pin digs into the plastic and restricts the vertical movement of the slip ring. The result is inconsistent steering because the slip ring no longer moves smoothly in relation to the twist of the torsion bar.
The plastic slip ring can become gouged by the metal pin if the grease dries up, once that happens you will need a new unit. This is because instead of sliding on the grooves on a layer of grease, the pin digs into the plastic and restricts the vertical movement of the slip ring. The result is inconsistent steering because the slip ring no longer moves smoothly in relation to the twist of the torsion bar.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 235
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From: Madison, WI
I happened to watch that video when I was re-greasing mine! Very interesting. My slip ring felt ok, but I'm not sure what it's supposed to feel like... Before cleaning, it could move up and down and there was a little play. It could be rocked back and forth slightly (as if the ID of the ring is larger than the OD of the shaft.)
After cleaning and greasing it felt pretty much the same.
After cleaning and greasing it felt pretty much the same.