AP1Driver

For the last few thousand miles I've been noticing a lot of thumping and banging going on, seemingly in the rear right side of the car. I assumed that it had something to do with the custom exhaust work I did to the car, but no luck, as I can't find a single spot where metal hits metal. That's what the noise sounds like, and it isn't load sensitive; still does it when rolling in neutral. It seems louder when car is first driven, but is sporadic. Sometimes I won't hear it for hours or lots of miles and sometimes I hear it constantly. I checked all suspension bolts, shock to body mounts in the trunk, can't find anything loose. This sounds like a hammer tapping the trunk underneath and is annoying as hell, but doesn't affect the car's dynamics at all. Checked driveshaft also, no play top to bottom or fore/aft. Anyone else have a clue?

Thanks for any input.

WarrenW

I'm going to ask what everyone else will ask - have you re-torqued your axle nuts to 220ft-lbs?

tags

Could someone please post a pic of the axle nuts? Must it be 220 or simply really really tight? Would love to do this on my own without going to mechanic. I don't have an impact wrench, and I don't have a torque wrench that goes to 220. Is this a possible diy?

Billman250

Axle nuts not tight enough from factory. Covers all s2ks, 2000-2009. Even if you have no issues, all s2ks should have the "Axle nut tsb" performed. Cars that have not had it done are almost certain to develop shifting hubs, then worn hubs, then destroyed bearings.

First off, DO NOT buy new nuts...you'll see why soon.

This entire job can and should be done by removing the rear wheel center caps. Leave the wheels on and the car on the ground.

The nut has a bent over part called a stake. The staked part of the nut is bent into a slot on the axle. This is a safety so the nut cant come loose. Using a hammer and special shaped chisel, or other hard tool, un-stake the nut.

Remove the nut, and grease the face of the nut (NOT the threads) with a thin coat of wheel bearing grease. (note: the nut MUST be greased or the torque setting is useless)

Re-install the nut, and torque it to 220.

On ORIGINAL nut AND TORQUE, IF DONE CORRECTLY, the staked part of the nut will have moved from 12 oclock to 2 oclock. On older cars, it can even go to 3 oclock.

Re-stake the nut in its new position with a hammer and dull chisel.

hellaSleepy

So if my axle nut tsb was never taken care of, the staked part will be at 12 o'clock? & does this cover both rear axle nuts or passenger side only?

WarrenW

Could you explain why this is? I don't understand why greasing the face of the nut would make a difference when re-torquing. I would think the threads should be greased.

Billman250

Because the large surface area of the nut, if not greased, will cause high friction and the correct torque will not be reached. The torque wrench will click off early based on friction...not a properly pulled torque.

DO NOT grease the threads.

Billman250

No. you cant think of it like that. 2 oclock is RELATIVE to a nut that was at 12 oclock. Its a reference.

There will only be one stake mark if its never been done. both axle nuts.

hellaSleepy

I see, thanks

tags

Thanks Billman! That was really helpful