Hi guys,

I just found no. 3 main bearing shot, after a drop in oil pressure (I have an AEM gauge installed). Funny but all the rod bearing were all fain.
I want to replace them all with OEMs but I have some issues decoding them, please see below:

- crankshaft markings:
CCCC
44556
990601
MAIN bearings

1. D9F D9F
2. D9F D9F
3. D9F D9D
4. D9F D9D
5. D9F D8L

engine markings:
DDDDD

rod bearings
1. D9E D9E
2. D9E D9E
3. D9E D9E
4. D9E D9E

appreciate any help, thanks.

 

Anybody please ?

 

Honda uses colors to indicate bearing thickness. The bearings should have a small paint mark on the edge right around the center of the bearing. I attached a few pages with the charts from the service manual.

 

Even then, colors are only a starting guide, as are the block stampings. In other words, they will get you in close range.

Plastic-gauge after bearing installation is the ONLY way to build the engine properly.

 

Thanks for reply, but I want to replace the exact bearings that I found in the engine, only bearing no 3 was shot, but the crankshaft is ok.
My problem is that I have the numbers on the bearings, crank and block, see them above, but I can't figure it out to match them with OEM's part numbers.

 

Please see below the OEM's part number, how can I match them ?

13211-PCX-003 BEARING A, CONNECTING ROD (BLUE) (DAIDO)
13212-PCX-003 BEARING B, CONNECTING ROD (BLACK) (DAIDO)
13213-PCX-003 BEARING C, CONNECTING ROD (BROWN) (DAIDO)
13214-PCX-003 BEARING D, CONNECTING ROD (GREEN) (DAIDO)
13215-PCX-003 BEARING E, CONNECTING ROD (YELLOW) (DAIDO)
13216-PCX-003 BEARING F, CONNECTING ROD (PINK) (DAIDO)
13217-PCX-003 BEARING G, CONNECTING ROD (RED) (DAIDO)

13321-PCX-003 BEARING A, MAIN (BLUE) (DAIDO)
13322-PCX-003 BEARING B, MAIN (BLACK) (DAIDO)
13323-PCX-003 BEARING C, MAIN (BROWN) (DAIDO)
13324-PCX-003 BEARING D, MAIN (GREEN) (DAIDO)
13325-PCX-003 BEARING E, MAIN (YELLOW) (DAIDO)
13326-PCX-003 BEARING F, MAIN (PINK) (DAIDO)

 

Like Billman said you cannot replace the exact ones you still must plastigauge every bearing replaced.

 

well by that logic my friend, you should eat your own shit because that's the equivalent of taking something that's been used up and putting the same thing back in.

Per bill, you NEED to measure, plastic gauge, and actually do work. If you intend on just pulling it out to put it back in without this work, expect to pull it out again in less than..... 10k miles.

 

Ok, so where does he start? Order all of the bearings and keep trying different ones to find the exact clearance needed for each journal?

 

You have to measure, measure, measure. mic'ing the crank would be the first step.