Btw, they can't mill head for some of the cylinders abd not others. Its one, long flat surface. It all gets machined or none of it.

As mentioned by others, our heads can only be machined a very tiny amount before they become unusable.

There are so many things that can go wrong with rebuilding this motor, that aren't issues for other engines. So even a very experienced shop that just doesn't have experience with this motor will make fatal mistakes. Like milling the head. They won't have any idea that is an issue, and likely won't believe you if you try and tell them (some guys on the internet said...)

Even shops that specialize in rebuilding this motor have great difficulty building one that ends up being reliable.

The chances of a shop that has never done one of these motors getting it all correct and ending up with a reliable motor is pretty much zero.

Sleeves are generally used by guys who want to run super high hp turbo or sc builds, like 900hp+, and aren't expecting motor to last for any significant miles. Not really suitable for NA street use.

 

I'll keep the used engine as a plan B if i screw the rebuild of this one, decided on trying it as i find it highly intriguing.
Thank for the tips and links, will be ordering CP pistons and eagle rods from a4h.

Thanks. Won't a new, or a better/stiffer chain tensioner compenstate for the difference?

Done correctly the sleeved block should be as reliable as stock from what i've red, with a big emphasis on done correctly. Will also try to improve cooling with good radiator as the iron sleeves don't dissipate heat as well as the aluminum block. But again i'm total amateur hear and probably overlook something
So if tolerances on the crank are bad they are paperweight? or what do u mean by re-ground?

Thanks! and if anyone has more good tips and check lists for the build, please it's very welcome!


I meant the inside of the heads cylinder chamber, where it's damaged. I'm wondering if that can be fixed, or if the head is unusable for the rebuild? such sharp edges may surely create hot spots so they have to be dealt with, but not sure if that much material can be taken out of the heads combustion chamber.

Thanks for the warnings, will walk the path anyway and see what happens

 

No. In fact "better/stiffer chain tensioners" are the cause of many destroyed S2000 engines. Improper installation and too much tension will do the same damage. Timing chain tension is a frequent topic here.

-- Chuck

 

There is a engine build process commonly referred to as 'cc'ing the head'. It involves machining the combustion chamber area (same area where you note damage), so that all combustion chambers are exactly equal in volume.

So machining that area isn't unheard of. But not sure that much can be removed, without lowering compression ratio significantly.

The existing damage, the raised areas, would likely cause hot spots that would make pre-ignition more likely.

 

Doesn't look to bad though,could just remove high spots with something like a sharpie ,was more concerned with corrosion around water ways.Think its good to keep the mottled finish as much as possible,as is designed like it for a reason.

 

Try get a good condition used cylinder head, just getting 8 new intake valves is over 500€ then valve stems, machining etc on top of that.
Either way you go you might want to change to the upgraded AP2 retainers.

 

Thanks, will look take a deeper dive into it

Thanks will consult and machine shop about it

I had an quote of 220€ for 8 intake valves from the local honda dealer. But yea will try to hunt for a head and keep the fixing of this one as a plan B; and yea will consider the AP2 retrainers as i did read AP1 ones break sometimes


As a update to the thread i've tried to read up on the aluminum block sleeving for past weeks. Officially it's a solid solution and can be made reliably, many oem aluminum blocks run iron sleeves with aluminum pistons, the clearances can be machined for the materials to work together.
On other hand i've read tons of stories of failed sleeving, as the insertion of sleeves with all the machining work takes tremendous amount of knowledge and care that most machinist just do not have. There's a good chance the block will be ****ed up quite fast, thus i'm considering just going the way of getting a good stock block.
That way will probably be couple thousands more expensive up front, but might be cheaper in the long run - also won't be as exciting as building my own engine from scratch.
So now i'm actively looking for replacement blocks / complete bottoms and still considering to at least interview couple local machine shops that advertise on sleeving know-how. I'm mechnical engineer by trade and think i have red enough on the process to see how well the machinist is up to date with the task.

 

Approach with caution and also shop for a used engine from a wrecked car, that way you have plan A and B covered, and are moving forward. Also maybe also start a plan C, with enough S2K love more than one engine might work, two cars might be a indication of a S2K problem and I am also shopping so l have a problem

 

Firstly it's a shame this happened to your engine Always ensure that the engine has enough of the good stuff - proper liquid gold (quality synthetic oil, 10W30, 5W30 or 5W40).

Since you're about to spend north of 5k Euros on a rebuild, why not import an unopened stock engine and install that instead? Then sell off what you can from your current engine to recover costs. Just be sure to buy a used engine from a reputable shop or from a car that you know did not have engine problems before it was totaled.

 

I was going to refer the dude to you for some hands on help, if he were in Sweden that is