flywheel s2000 URGENT
just got back from Honda they are changing my clutch kit(oem), but it seems the flywheel is cracked and i need to replace it, should i go with oem or spoon ? any recommendations ( im located in europe so i have to order it from england or ebay)
thank you
thank you
yeah but shipping from USA is about $300 via UPS(2weeks) and i've found the OEM flywheel at $263 + vat (%24) .. i would go with fidanza if it fits and performance is the same, I use the car for daily driving not for racing..
Originally Posted by deepbluejh' timestamp='1361804609' post='22361476
My advice would be to buy a used OEM flywheel ($100) and take it to an independent shop. Those prices are ridiculous.
yeah but shipping from USA is about $300 via UPS(2weeks) and i've found the OEM flywheel at $263 + vat (%24) .. i would go with fidanza if it fits and performance is the same, I use the car for daily driving not for racing..
It's going to make the engine revs rise and drop faster. it's going to be harder to drive the car smoothly in traffic and easier to stall out. It makes things better when driving very aggressively yet more annoying when driving casually. General consensus is that the OEM AP1 flywheel is nicely weighted and few people have a problem with it. If you really want a lightweight flywheel then get the Fidanza, but don't dogmatically switch from OEM just because you assume aftermarket is always better.
Originally Posted by znull' timestamp='1361805274' post='22361503
[quote name='deepbluejh' timestamp='1361804609' post='22361476']
My advice would be to buy a used OEM flywheel ($100) and take it to an independent shop. Those prices are ridiculous.
My advice would be to buy a used OEM flywheel ($100) and take it to an independent shop. Those prices are ridiculous.
yeah but shipping from USA is about $300 via UPS(2weeks) and i've found the OEM flywheel at $263 + vat (%24) .. i would go with fidanza if it fits and performance is the same, I use the car for daily driving not for racing..
it's going to be harder to drive the car smoothly in traffic and easier to stall out.
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In theory it is less drivable but in practice I have not found that to be the case. I have always enjoyed my lightweight Toda FW and people that drive my car are very impressed with the responsiveness.
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I have a 10lbs aftermarket flywheel and it is not harder to drive in traffic (i live in Southern California and traffic can be really bad here). Definitely more fun to drive the car, the engine feels more lively, couldn't be happier.
Some facts to toss out to clear up a little "hearsay" on the matter.
AP1 flywheel: 14lbs
AP2 flywheel: 21lbs
Lighter flywheels give the engine less inertia at any given rpms, which means you'll have to feed the engine more throttle upon letting out the clutch in order to get the car rolling. If you neglect to give it proper throttle, the odds of it stalling out are greater than with a heavy flywheel. In short, it's a little more "work" and it affords less room for error. The lighter the flywheel, the more intense this effect is going to be.
IMO, something between 10 and 14lbs is probably optimal for most people in this car. Don't just assume that lighter is better or aftermarket is better. Have a goal and know what you're buying before you jump.
AP1 flywheel: 14lbs
AP2 flywheel: 21lbs
Lighter flywheels give the engine less inertia at any given rpms, which means you'll have to feed the engine more throttle upon letting out the clutch in order to get the car rolling. If you neglect to give it proper throttle, the odds of it stalling out are greater than with a heavy flywheel. In short, it's a little more "work" and it affords less room for error. The lighter the flywheel, the more intense this effect is going to be.
IMO, something between 10 and 14lbs is probably optimal for most people in this car. Don't just assume that lighter is better or aftermarket is better. Have a goal and know what you're buying before you jump.
Some facts to toss out to clear up a little "hearsay" on the matter.
AP1 flywheel: 14lbs
AP2 flywheel: 21lbs
Lighter flywheels give the engine less inertia at any given rpms, which means you'll have to feed the engine more throttle upon letting out the clutch in order to get the car rolling. If you neglect to give it proper throttle, the odds of it stalling out are greater than with a heavy flywheel. In short, it's a little more "work" and it affords less room for error. The lighter the flywheel, the more intense this effect is going to be.
IMO, something between 10 and 14lbs is probably optimal for most people in this car. Don't just assume that lighter is better or aftermarket is better. Have a goal and know what you're buying before you jump.
AP1 flywheel: 14lbs
AP2 flywheel: 21lbs
Lighter flywheels give the engine less inertia at any given rpms, which means you'll have to feed the engine more throttle upon letting out the clutch in order to get the car rolling. If you neglect to give it proper throttle, the odds of it stalling out are greater than with a heavy flywheel. In short, it's a little more "work" and it affords less room for error. The lighter the flywheel, the more intense this effect is going to be.
IMO, something between 10 and 14lbs is probably optimal for most people in this car. Don't just assume that lighter is better or aftermarket is better. Have a goal and know what you're buying before you jump.



