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New 70mm throttle body with TPS came in today so I'll get that installed later today. I'm gunna try to run a bottle or two of fuel system cleaner through it as well. Whenever I get a chance this weekend I'll pull the valve cover and check the timing and valve lash.
Installing the TPS is not as simple as just bolting it on and plugging it in. You have to adjust it to the correct ohm reading.
Until the throttle body, not much on that list are actual performance mods (rather they are mods to handle power adders that haven't been added yet).
He has a header, tp, and exhaust. An intake. He'd see a decent increase with a tune, but stock ecu should still be fine. Now he's adding a tb, which would bring some potential drivability without tune, but still way below what he's seeing now.
Until the throttle body, not much on that list are actual performance mods (rather they are mods to handle power adders that haven't been added yet).
He has a header, tp, and exhaust. An intake. He'd see a decent increase with a tune, but stock ecu should still be fine. Now he's adding a tb, which would bring some potential drivability without tune, but still way below what he's seeing now.
Thanks for the input, that's pretty much what I've figured too. I need to go buy a voltmeter this weekend to install the new TPS correctly. I'll report back once it's on.
The new tb should come with how to install. Before removing your oem, make sure you take a reading what the resistance is before removing the tps sensor. You’ll need to reinstall the sensor and Make sure you have the same reading.
Ok so just got done working on the car a bit. I tested the oem TPS fist and found that it read smoothly from .3 to 4.5V so I figured I'd leave it alone while I checked other things. I pulled the valve cover and found that my genius self had read the feeler gauges wrong and used .2 inches instead of .2mm when I initially did the valve adjustment before installing the engine, so there was a mile of valve lash. I was really hopeful that this was going to be the cause of my issues since it makes sense that the engines not receiving or expelling the combustion mixture properly because the valves aren't opening enough. Welp, got it all back together, did an ecu reset as well and the problem is still there, possibly even worse than before.
My timing marks were a bit intersting. If my crank pulley was lined up perfectly on the arrow my cam gear marks were just a hair off and if I lined up my cam gear perfectly, my crank pulley was just a hair off from the arrow. What do you guys think? Cam gears aligned Crank pulley just a touch off Crank pulley aligned Cam gears just a touch off
I think it's pretty normal for the crank to be just slightly off.
Doesn't sound good at all at VTEC there
Right! When I was assembling it, I couldn't for the life of me get the cams to line up with the crank set perfectly. I've been scouring other threads about timing and other people have had theirs further off than mine and report that the car runs decently still.
