Hi Everybody!! I'm a newbie, and I think this site is awesome.

Anyway, back to the topic......this S2k has a Comptech SC, HKS headers, HKS exhaust, XS intercooler(I think), blitz blow-off valve..etc. This S2k might start to sound familiar to some of you, it was in the forums couple of times before. For those for you who think you know which car this is, it also has 19" HREs with yellow center and the car is yellow.

The car is not putting out any boost right now, and there's a ringing/grinding sound coming from the SC. I never heard that SC before, so I don't know if it suppose to sound like that. I've checked most the stuff that I can, including oil, plugs, blow-off valve, bracket and belt. The belt is not very tight, it moves about 3/4 to an inch. There's a boost gauge on the car, that's how I know there's no boost. The gauge itself is good, it shows vacuum and responds when the throttle is opened.

The dealer that I just bought this car from said the car was boosting at least 5lbs just before it was shipped to NY from FL. But when was the last time you trusted a car salesman? So much for paying extra for extras that don't work.

If anyone knows about this problem or have heard about it or knows what exactly is on this car ( I think there's a guy on this message board that really hates the previous owner of this car) , please let me know. And does anybody know where can I get the SC rebuilt if it's an internal problem? Anybody from the Long Island or metro area in NY with a SC on their S2K want to meet up and hear the car??

 

Woo, sorry to hear your trouble.
Blower's whistle and gear chatter is normal but grinding? Hmm, that doesn't sound good.

It is also possible that there is some malfunction with check valve system (check this Comptech pdf file of installation http://www.comptechusa.com/instructions/ins072.pdf )
and judging from how your car had the supercharger when frist introduced, I doubt you have the latest electronic solution called ESM(electronic signal modifier) preventing MAP sensor from seeing boost.
Order this asap from Comptech and install it and yank out the check valve system, you should be able to pick up some discount since you are thes upercharger owner now. Cost should be $130-$150. It installs where ECU plug is and it looks simple but needs to be done carefully.
I witnessed one dyno of the supercharger owner and when boost seems like it suppose to build, it stopped like it hit a brick wall or something and came out only 230 hp in the end.
It can happen, if the check valve thingy is not up to the task anymore.

Check the blower pulley, is it matt black or any other color?
Check the size of the blower pulley, is it less than 4.75 inches?
The reason I am asking that is whether if you have smaller pulley than normal one. You see, Comptech's unit is set out for 6psi(but nominally little less and maybe 5psi) but there is no way possible you still retain pressure of 5psi going through air-to-air intercooler setup that you have. How do I know? I have similar set-up as yours with XS intercooler core and similar pipe layout.
You are definitely loosing 2psi or maybe little more going through that big intercooler core and 3inch piping.
So eventhough you have intercooler doing its job of cooling the hot compressed air, you most likely put out much less hp than non-intercooled normal supercharger set-up due to loss of pressure. You will need to custom build smaller blower pulley like I have to compensate for loss of pressure.

Let's not hope that there is something really wrong with the blower itself like a bearing failure. This sucker ain't cheap and it retails for $1900-$2000 just blower itself.
The blower is made by Paxton but I am not sure if they do rebuilding service like Vortech's does. So you may want to contact Paxton. I believe the website is www.paxtonauto.com
or call 1-888-9paxton and ask for technical support.

And if you do need a smaller pulley which you really need, contact me and I will refer you to the fabricator that I've used. He will custom make one for you around $350.

I am sure the dealer you will purchased from will foot the bill for fixing it up. So don't worry too much.
Also, you may still retain warranty from Comptech although I am not too sure if the warranty is transferable and valid since you modified the integral design of the kit by adding intercooler setup.

But good Luck, I hope you have your new car run like it suppose to soon. Don't worry too much.

 

I sent you PM on where to go on Long Island to have it diagnosed.

 

FYI, if the check valve is malfunctioning a boost gauge will still show boost...the car will just run bad.

I'd assume that something is wrong with the, uhhh, what I'm gonna call by-pass valve (underneath the SC). I really don't know how this works, but the SC doesn't produce boost under non-WOT. So, maybe the valve is stuck and preventing boost to be made by the SC even under WOT.

 

Wes, that is a good call and better call.
The thing is that he also has a blow-off valve....
I am not sure if the car retains the air by pass valve also, but I think there is judging from the picture I saw while ago.
It could be the fault in the air by pass valve like Wes has commented.
I am at the stage where I would like to get rid of the air by pass valve and run with just a blow off valve. At least there are several kinds of blow off valve, where one that just release to the atmosphere and the other that does both(venting and recirculating back to intake). Eitherway both may give me adjustment control which I need. Hopely I will have something done in about couple of weeks.

 

I'd start with removing the Blitz blow-off valve and using the supplied. From memory the systems runs off the throttle position sensor to activate the blow-off valve, and it may not be working correctly. The Paxton supecharger has a bid of gear noise to it, but nothing that should create quite the noise that you describe. Contact Comptech, and work with a local knowledgeable tech.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.

Regards,
-- Chris

 

With this setup you can't really remove the BOV with out some welding involved..

I sounds to me like the belt isn't tensioned correctly??

I was the guy who wasn't very fond of the original owner (guy who manages wheelmax.com, which has been accused of being a shady business in it's self) I sent him $500 to hold the parts on the car until I sold my Z06 (took about 3 weeks) and the guy went and traded the car in .. I called him when I had the money from the Z06 in hand to do the install and every time I called I got some story about how he wasn't available and he left his cell phone by accident..

Chris

 

Tighten the belt and check the BOV. A good rule of thumb for the SC belt is trying to "twang" the belt in the middle of its longest run. Instead of flopping in the air, you should be able to play some sort of note.

 

A really simple way to check the tension of the belt is to be able to rotate by twisting about 90 degrees between your thumb and pointer and middle finger with about as much force as those three fingers can manage.