This is the note I keep in my car and the specs work well... (moded suspension)

FrontCaster 6°45" to 6.75°
Front Camber -1.0°
Front Toe 0.0°

Rear Camber -2.0°
Rear Toe 0°20" = +0.16° *custom(+0.1° - +0.15° per side),
up to TotalToe 0°40" = +0.32° *custom(+0.2°-+0.3° total)

A tiny touch of toe-in on the front will aid tracking and stops tram-lining; too little toe-in in the rear makes it hard to keep the rear where you want it.

 

Another vote for stock.

 

If you ask for "stock alignment" they put it on the machine and if everythings shows up green it's "stock".

If they have to adjust something they do so until the values are "green".

Yeah, that's very nice.

Do you realize "stock" front camber can be zero degrees?

As in: No angle?

 

Great advice and so very true, whatever you decide find an alignment shop that will set your car to your exact settings.

I had my Honda dealer that didn't want to fix a seized camber bolt because it was still within spec, I took it to an independent alignment shop and they fixed the seized bolt and set the camber evenly.

I find This also applies to valve adjustments, they just check to make sure things are within spec rather than setting and adjusting each adjuster evenly.

 

cdelena's list is perfect and I have been driving with these settings for 8 years or longer.

UK-speck is wrong in the rear toe-in only, way too much, but right in all the other settings.

Btw, if you use directional tires but not a-symmetrical ones you can swap them L>R after a while to increase usage.

Because -1 front and -2 rear camber will wear the inside of the profile.

If you don't want tire wear: don't drive it.

 

I've run UK specs for camber for a few years now including some very long highway trips, but I have rear toe set at 3/16" total toe-in. and zero front toe. Tire wear has been good as stock, no unusual tire wear on any of my tires. You can have increased camber without extra wear as long as toe settings are reasonable.

 

+1 for stock