I read in another thread that gravity bleeding is the best. However, I am replacing almost my entire braking system (Rotors, lines, and pads) and wanted to know if I can do the gravity bleeding as well, or is there another trick to it?

The order that Billman recommends is FR, RR, RL, FL. What would be the best way for me to do the entire process? Thanks for the help guys.

 

see if you can buy one of those one man vacum pumps, makes life alot easier, they sell them at harbor freight tools.

 

If you can, I'd suggest a power bleeder. I just replaced my lines, and we had air in the system that absolutely refused to come out with gravity bleeding. Huge headache.

 

i don't know how much it matters, but i do know that based on other threads about this same topic, the honda manual says LF, RF, RR, LR.

in replacing all the lines and everything, gravity bleeding is going to be quite a chore...

 

Figured. Maybe I'll do it the pressure way now, then gravity bleed them later. I doubt my braking system will be that much worse if I pressure bleed vs gravity bleeding.

 

I've always done the pressure bleeding method, but after reading Bill's gravity method and seeing all the responses/results... I'd dying to try it!

 

I replace the stainless steel brake lines on the race car once per year. I always gravity bleed and have never had a problem with getting all the air out. I always have a firm pedal.

 

^^^ hahahahah... he's gota FIRM PEDAL. .... giggity giggity

 

I did the same, replaced lines and gravity did not work for me. I had to pump to get it going, then I could gravity bleed it. Once you see a little brake fluid in the hose, gravity can take over.

But I need to see what this firm pedal feels like, because it doesn't seem that firm to me.

 

So how do I gravity bleed while changing the lines....

1)Change line
2)Pressure bleed until fluid comes out of the NEW line.
3)?