I got my head redone and all I need to do is install the cams and adjust the valves. When I tried to install the cams the back part of the cams are not sitting smoothly. When I do get them seated in it feels like they are too tight because I need to apply a bit of force to get them back out. Everything is oiled a d lubricated. I haven't torqued the caps yet because of this issue. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

I've done this in the past and normally the cam slips right in.

 

Are the valve adjustment screws fully backed off? Personally, even though you CAN re-install cams that way, you run a massive risk of breaking something when re-torqueing the cams if you're not careful from what I've heard. I've had my cams out numerous times and always opted to fully back off the valve adjustment screws before re-installation of the cams so there's no pressure.

That said, I still found that the cams installed rather tight as opposed to just dropping right in. It took a little persuasion on my part. And even when the cams were "seated" it still felt like there's some slight, "springy" tension on them, correct? Regardless, I've torqued them down like that and had no issues. Cams have been out roughly 3x so far and re-assembled this way and it's been fine.

 

Be SURE there are no missing dowel pins in the cam towers.

Are you installing the cams with the timing marks properly aligned?

I personally never back off the rockers, but it takes some practice. I use a small 1/4” battery driver with a clutch. I turn the clutch way down, so you can EASILY stop the socket in your hand while the drill is turning. This prevents you from over tightening any bolt and stressing the caps.

 

Yes there is some spring type pressure when pressing down on the cam. I messed with it a little more last night and it seemed OK. Timing Is set on the gear. Thanks for the help. I'll get back to you and let you know what happens. I'm gonna back out the adjustment bolts.

 

I triple checked the pins in the towers. They easily can get lost.

 

While the cams are out...

Check that all 8 center rockers are free from the outside rockers. push down hard on each one with your thumb, make sure they spring up and down freely.

 

Seems like everything turned out OK. I torqued everything to spec and spun the motor a few times. Thank you for the help. Here is a before and after @Billman250 . I bought this engine from a car that was involved in a Florida hurricane. It has only 7k miles on it. It had low compression and no start situation. Ended up having 12 bent valves. Luckily the rods checked out ok. On 2 of the cylinders the piston just shot down as soon as I hooked up the tester. I guess that shows pretty good sealing? I got the engine for $1700

 

$1700 and only 7k miles on it?! Just needed some headwork?! That's amazing! And it came with the trans? You can get that money back for just the trans alone if it's AP2.

 

Yes. It was a risk but It was worth the price IMO. Originally he was selling everything from the motor back to the diff for 8k. It was a running car and when I was on my way to see the engine run the guy called me and said the car would not start anymore. I offered to come back and do some testing on the engine. It could have been a no start due to the hurricane it was involved in but it turns out valves bent due to water. I gave him my offer for the engine only and we had a deal.

 

HECK YEA IT WAS WORTH IT...I'm jelly af...