heat soak power loss and a cooling plate
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,785
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
heat soak power loss and a cooling plate
anyone else have this odd heat soak power loss when in trafic or anything? i installed a cooling plate with the duct to the factory intake box and i noticed that it goes away after maybe 2 mins of moving again.
what im wondering is, does anyone have this style of cooling plate and have you removed the factory cooling shroud and gotten rid of this problem?
also what about cooling issues after taking out the factory piece
what im wondering is, does anyone have this style of cooling plate and have you removed the factory cooling shroud and gotten rid of this problem?
also what about cooling issues after taking out the factory piece
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sandwich, IL
Posts: 1,518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by xlaox,Oct 16 2007, 08:14 PM
yea s2000 is prone to heat seak.. try adding a aftermarket radiator cap, fan switch, and thermostat
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,785
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well, my cooling plate is also like a "ram air" scoop. it feeds directly into the stock airbox "horn" thing. it looks like a horn tweeter on a PA system.
but what kind of "low temp" t-stats and rad caps are people running? also does that affect the "cold redline" issue???
but what kind of "low temp" t-stats and rad caps are people running? also does that affect the "cold redline" issue???
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,785
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
why does it suffer from this problem?
is it a function of just a hot running engine or not enough air circulating around the engine bay?
and as a side note an aftermarket rad cap would only allow water/coolant to flow into the overflow tank earlier, how does that helP?
is it a function of just a hot running engine or not enough air circulating around the engine bay?
and as a side note an aftermarket rad cap would only allow water/coolant to flow into the overflow tank earlier, how does that helP?
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Marcos, TX
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The OEM air box seperates the hot air from the radiator and the engine bay. Once you remove it you're gonna get heat soak into the air intake and manifold. I use a Siebon SC cooling plate and never had a problem even in 100+ temps. BTW I did remove the factory shroud without consequence.
#9
Moderator
You know, its not really heat soak, its hot air surrounding the car while its standing still, and hot air is less dense and thus you get less power when you go to start moving again. The real thing you need to do is clear the hot air out from the intake system and from in front of the intake opening, and the most common way to do that is to drive and get the car moving through cooler air.
Of course, you have to get the car moving first - blip the throttle a couple times and the hot air in the intake system will "flush out", pulling cooler air (but still hot) from outside the system and alleviating the problem somewhat.
Of course, you have to get the car moving first - blip the throttle a couple times and the hot air in the intake system will "flush out", pulling cooler air (but still hot) from outside the system and alleviating the problem somewhat.
#10
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Lorton, VA
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Saki GT,Oct 18 2007, 05:22 PM
You know, its not really heat soak, its hot air surrounding the car while its standing still, and hot air is less dense and thus you get less power when you go to start moving again. The real thing you need to do is clear the hot air out from the intake system and from in front of the intake opening, and the most common way to do that is to drive and get the car moving through cooler air.
Of course, you have to get the car moving first - blip the throttle a couple times and the hot air in the intake system will "flush out", pulling cooler air (but still hot) from outside the system and alleviating the problem somewhat.
Of course, you have to get the car moving first - blip the throttle a couple times and the hot air in the intake system will "flush out", pulling cooler air (but still hot) from outside the system and alleviating the problem somewhat.