S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

heat soak power loss and a cooling plate

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Old 10-16-2007, 07:35 PM
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Default heat soak power loss and a cooling plate

anyone else have this odd heat soak power loss when in trafic or anything? i installed a cooling plate with the duct to the factory intake box and i noticed that it goes away after maybe 2 mins of moving again.

what im wondering is, does anyone have this style of cooling plate and have you removed the factory cooling shroud and gotten rid of this problem?

also what about cooling issues after taking out the factory piece
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:14 PM
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yea s2000 is prone to heat seak.. try adding a aftermarket radiator cap, fan switch, and thermostat
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by xlaox,Oct 16 2007, 08:14 PM
yea s2000 is prone to heat seak.. try adding a aftermarket radiator cap, fan switch, and thermostat
wont do anything, correct me if i'm wrong but thats for engine temp, not intake air temp, which is why heat soak occurs, bc of the hot air entering the intake. it all depends on what kind of aftermarket intake you have. some have heat shields to somewhat help, some dont. type heat soak in the search box and read some of the posts, you'll find interesting ways to help out with the heat soak.
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Old 10-17-2007, 08:16 AM
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well, my cooling plate is also like a "ram air" scoop. it feeds directly into the stock airbox "horn" thing. it looks like a horn tweeter on a PA system.

but what kind of "low temp" t-stats and rad caps are people running? also does that affect the "cold redline" issue???
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Old 10-17-2007, 11:32 AM
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The Search Function is working again.

and the FAQ's are too
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Old 10-17-2007, 11:36 AM
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The Hondadata insulator gasket or a vented hood may help with stop and go traffic heat soak. I'd just deal with it or drive when it's less congested.
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Old 10-18-2007, 05:16 AM
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why does it suffer from this problem?

is it a function of just a hot running engine or not enough air circulating around the engine bay?


and as a side note an aftermarket rad cap would only allow water/coolant to flow into the overflow tank earlier, how does that helP?
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Old 10-18-2007, 09:20 AM
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The OEM air box seperates the hot air from the radiator and the engine bay. Once you remove it you're gonna get heat soak into the air intake and manifold. I use a Siebon SC cooling plate and never had a problem even in 100+ temps. BTW I did remove the factory shroud without consequence.

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Old 10-18-2007, 05:22 PM
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You know, its not really heat soak, its hot air surrounding the car while its standing still, and hot air is less dense and thus you get less power when you go to start moving again. The real thing you need to do is clear the hot air out from the intake system and from in front of the intake opening, and the most common way to do that is to drive and get the car moving through cooler air.

Of course, you have to get the car moving first - blip the throttle a couple times and the hot air in the intake system will "flush out", pulling cooler air (but still hot) from outside the system and alleviating the problem somewhat.
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Old 10-19-2007, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Saki GT,Oct 18 2007, 05:22 PM
You know, its not really heat soak, its hot air surrounding the car while its standing still, and hot air is less dense and thus you get less power when you go to start moving again. The real thing you need to do is clear the hot air out from the intake system and from in front of the intake opening, and the most common way to do that is to drive and get the car moving through cooler air.

Of course, you have to get the car moving first - blip the throttle a couple times and the hot air in the intake system will "flush out", pulling cooler air (but still hot) from outside the system and alleviating the problem somewhat.
It is heat soak! The intake manifold gets really hot causing the IAT to rise. Surrounding temp does play a role in this but the main reason is the intake manifolds temp increasing.
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