Heater Issue
04-11-2015, 07:49 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Heater Issue
Hello all,
The issue I have is that no power is being given to the actuator motor (passenger footwell UK) which moves aparatus which in-turn moves the heater valve in the engine bay (via the cable).
I have check fuse 21 on the interior fuse box, which is fine. I have checked the engine heater blower motor fuse (number 9), which is fine.
The heater control works fine, all lights working, fan speed and directional controls work fine. I have replaced this with another unit, no luck.
I have replaced the actuator motor for a new one, still no power which means no movement.
The only thing I am left to believe to be at fault is a broken cable but as they are all insulated its hard to see which one.
Is there anything I have missed?
Are there any further fuses or relays I need to check?
All help appreciated.
Mike
The issue I have is that no power is being given to the actuator motor (passenger footwell UK) which moves aparatus which in-turn moves the heater valve in the engine bay (via the cable).
I have check fuse 21 on the interior fuse box, which is fine. I have checked the engine heater blower motor fuse (number 9), which is fine.
The heater control works fine, all lights working, fan speed and directional controls work fine. I have replaced this with another unit, no luck.
I have replaced the actuator motor for a new one, still no power which means no movement.
The only thing I am left to believe to be at fault is a broken cable but as they are all insulated its hard to see which one.
Is there anything I have missed?
Are there any further fuses or relays I need to check?
All help appreciated.
Mike
04-13-2015, 06:31 PM
#4
You are dealing with the "Air Mix Control-Door Position Input" circuit if I understand your issue correctly. This is a basic circuit (no relays) after control.
It is a two wire circuit and is easily checked to ground with a voltmeter.keep in mind the locations of connectors discussed with an eye towards "could I have disturbed this"; stereo install, airbags deletions, etc. Sometimes all it takes is reseating the connector to regain electrical contact.
The circuit starts at the control motor which is located where you noted. On the motor you will find a 7 pin green connector. There are 5 wires going to this. 4 on one side and 1 on the other (LT GRN). The "other" single side is ground. Position energy comes between pin 3 (PNK/BLK) to 7 (LT GRN) ground. When you actuate the control you should see 12 volts between these pins.
This circuit is a "B" branch circuit. Kind of like an arm or leg on a body; where the body is the A circuit; arm or leg is B.The motor B harness hooks to the main A) harness in the same general area as the motor. To the very right of this cavity you will see 4 connectors. The bottom is an 18 wire grey, there is a 6 wire and two light blue. The connector of interest is the 16 pin Light blue just above the grey (NOT the one in the back). There will be 12 wires on one side and 4 on the other. On the female side of this interface you should get 12 volts when you cycle the control between pins 6 (PNK/BLK) and ground ( now BLK ) pin 16 on the far end. This is where the B arm attaché to the A body; circuit wise.
The final connector is on the back side of the control itself . This is a 30 pin green connector which requires you drop the dash to get to. Again it is PNK/BLK pin 6 to now pin 26 BLK.....on the end.
Utah
P.S. Air delivery is controlled by Fuse 20 (hot in/ engine not cranking) and Fuse 25 (hot at all times).
It is a two wire circuit and is easily checked to ground with a voltmeter.keep in mind the locations of connectors discussed with an eye towards "could I have disturbed this"; stereo install, airbags deletions, etc. Sometimes all it takes is reseating the connector to regain electrical contact.
The circuit starts at the control motor which is located where you noted. On the motor you will find a 7 pin green connector. There are 5 wires going to this. 4 on one side and 1 on the other (LT GRN). The "other" single side is ground. Position energy comes between pin 3 (PNK/BLK) to 7 (LT GRN) ground. When you actuate the control you should see 12 volts between these pins.
This circuit is a "B" branch circuit. Kind of like an arm or leg on a body; where the body is the A circuit; arm or leg is B.The motor B harness hooks to the main A) harness in the same general area as the motor. To the very right of this cavity you will see 4 connectors. The bottom is an 18 wire grey, there is a 6 wire and two light blue. The connector of interest is the 16 pin Light blue just above the grey (NOT the one in the back). There will be 12 wires on one side and 4 on the other. On the female side of this interface you should get 12 volts when you cycle the control between pins 6 (PNK/BLK) and ground ( now BLK ) pin 16 on the far end. This is where the B arm attaché to the A body; circuit wise.
The final connector is on the back side of the control itself . This is a 30 pin green connector which requires you drop the dash to get to. Again it is PNK/BLK pin 6 to now pin 26 BLK.....on the end.
Utah
P.S. Air delivery is controlled by Fuse 20 (hot in/ engine not cranking) and Fuse 25 (hot at all times).
04-14-2015, 01:30 AM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
You are dealing with the "Air Mix Control-Door Position Input" circuit if I understand your issue correctly. This is a basic circuit (no relays) after control.
It is a two wire circuit and is easily checked to ground with a voltmeter.keep in mind the locations of connectors discussed with an eye towards "could I have disturbed this"; stereo install, airbags deletions, etc. Sometimes all it takes is reseating the connector to regain electrical contact.
The circuit starts at the control motor which is located where you noted. On the motor you will find a 7 pin green connector. There are 5 wires going to this. 4 on one side and 1 on the other (LT GRN). The "other" single side is ground. Position energy comes between pin 3 (PNK/BLK) to 7 (LT GRN) ground. When you actuate the control you should see 12 volts between these pins.
This circuit is a "B" branch circuit. Kind of like an arm or leg on a body; where the body is the A circuit; arm or leg is B.The motor B harness hooks to the main A) harness in the same general area as the motor. To the very right of this cavity you will see 4 connectors. The bottom is an 18 wire grey, there is a 6 wire and two light blue. The connector of interest is the 16 pin Light blue just above the grey (NOT the one in the back). There will be 12 wires on one side and 4 on the other. On the female side of this interface you should get 12 volts when you cycle the control between pins 6 (PNK/BLK) and ground ( now BLK ) pin 16 on the far end. This is where the B arm attaché to the A body; circuit wise.
The final connector is on the back side of the control itself . This is a 30 pin green connector which requires you drop the dash to get to. Again it is PNK/BLK pin 6 to now pin 26 BLK.....on the end.
Utah
P.S. Air delivery is controlled by Fuse 20 (hot in/ engine not cranking) and Fuse 25 (hot at all times).
It is a two wire circuit and is easily checked to ground with a voltmeter.keep in mind the locations of connectors discussed with an eye towards "could I have disturbed this"; stereo install, airbags deletions, etc. Sometimes all it takes is reseating the connector to regain electrical contact.
The circuit starts at the control motor which is located where you noted. On the motor you will find a 7 pin green connector. There are 5 wires going to this. 4 on one side and 1 on the other (LT GRN). The "other" single side is ground. Position energy comes between pin 3 (PNK/BLK) to 7 (LT GRN) ground. When you actuate the control you should see 12 volts between these pins.
This circuit is a "B" branch circuit. Kind of like an arm or leg on a body; where the body is the A circuit; arm or leg is B.The motor B harness hooks to the main A) harness in the same general area as the motor. To the very right of this cavity you will see 4 connectors. The bottom is an 18 wire grey, there is a 6 wire and two light blue. The connector of interest is the 16 pin Light blue just above the grey (NOT the one in the back). There will be 12 wires on one side and 4 on the other. On the female side of this interface you should get 12 volts when you cycle the control between pins 6 (PNK/BLK) and ground ( now BLK ) pin 16 on the far end. This is where the B arm attaché to the A body; circuit wise.
The final connector is on the back side of the control itself . This is a 30 pin green connector which requires you drop the dash to get to. Again it is PNK/BLK pin 6 to now pin 26 BLK.....on the end.
Utah
P.S. Air delivery is controlled by Fuse 20 (hot in/ engine not cranking) and Fuse 25 (hot at all times).
Thanks for the information!
I will be removing my dash in the next few months so this will allow me better access to review the wiring.
Cheers
Mike
04-15-2015, 05:10 PM
#6
Best dash removal info is from DJ Qube. google Qube-Enineering. He does LED dash upgrades but his pictorial install guides are the best. Poke around his site (Support/Documentation) a bit and you will find what you need. Look at his control mod install and you ca n see the connector.
Utah
Utah
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post