S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Help! AP1 oil burning mystery

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Old Aug 3, 2019 | 10:16 PM
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Unhappy Help! AP1 oil burning mystery

Hi all,

long time reader, first time poster all the way from Australia. I'm hoping that someone might be able to provide some insights as to what may be happening with my S2000,

It's a Dec 99 build AP1, with about 137,000kms on the clock. Full service history, I've replaced any part that needed to be replaced, or was on the verge of wearing out and never skimped out on costs. Do it once, do it right is my motto and I waited 15 years to buy one of these cars and I look after her like a family member.

After following the buyers guide on here and inspecting about 15 local examples across 6 months. I finally found what I thought was my perfect S2000. She was dead stock, aside from an upgraded PWR radiator. It had low mileage roughly 119,000kms, and had only been driven something like 10,000kms in the previous 3 years. I bought it as my only car, and drove it every day. In the first 6 months I had a lot of things break on me, from little things like air con control knobs, to bigger things like the electric power steering, engine mounts and having to rebuild the gearbox, just as a few examples. As you can see, I don't have the greatest luck when it comes to cars! The mechanical work was all done by a reputable local Honda and S2000 guru here in Melbourne. Now when I bought this car I also had intentions of taking her on the track for a few casual track days a year. I did my research on here, and concluded that there were a few mods that were agreed upon as necessary or 'should haves' for any early S2000 that has intentions of going on track.

These were a sump baffle plate, AP2 retainers and keepers, catch can, AP2 oil banjo bolt squirters. These were all installed at the same time, along with a coolant change and of course new oil. A valve adjustment was also performed after everything was installed. Again, all work done by the local S2000 guru who had done these things a million times.

This is where my issues begin, over the course of the week or two after getting this work done the car starting blowing smoke out the exhaust. It never used to blow anything before, and it never used oil either. From that point in time, and still to this day some 2 years later it blows smoke and uses oil. However, it only blew smoke out the exhaust after being stopped for a period of time, like setting off from a red light. From what I could tell, it never blew any smoke under VTEC or higher rpm. It would only every blow smoke out for the first few seconds after setting off from a stationary position.

Now logic would dictate that these are absolutely perfect symptoms for worn/broken valve stem seals. So, I bought some new OEM stem seals from Japan and had the same mechanic install them. He did not remove the head to do this.

There has been no change to oil burning or consumption after doing this. The symptoms remain exactly the same, and from the drivers seat I can only ever see blue smoke behind me when I set off from a stationary position. The frustrating thing is that it doesn't happen all the time, one day it might not do anything, other days it does it at every stop light.

Things I have done to try resolve it: PCV has been replaced, catch can is installed, changed up to a 40 weight oil, steam seals replaced.

I have gathered quite a bit of data over the years, and I cannot for the life of me find any form of consistency or pattern regarding the oil consumption. The closest I can get is that it only appears to blow a lot of smoke setting off from a standstill (at the lights), and doesn't blow anything in VTEC or on track. In fact the last time I had a track day, it was smoking up a storm in the dummy grid but as soon as I got out on track it cleared right up. In terms of numbers, the most recent lot of driving (it's doesn't get driven that much anymore) this is what it has used:

- Approx 330kms driven 800ml top up
- 220km driven 650ml top up
- 226km driven still on H on the dipstick.

Now this last 226km has included a 100km spirited drive through the mountains, with lots of VTEC and high rpm. The rest has been regular driving and commuting to work in traffic. No doubt you can see my frustration at trying to work out what's going on!

I have just performed a compression test, with the following results:
Cylinder (psi)
1 245, 241
2 249, 250
3 232, 233
4 235, 240

From here the only thing I can think of is to get a leak down test performed and see what those results are. Aside from that other ideas are that the valve stem seals weren't installed or haven't seated correctly, or I have bad oil control rings on Cylinders 3 and 4. I'm really hoping it's not rings or scoring in the cylinders, as finding someone here that is capable of fixing that is going to be an absolute crapshoot. Most people here would just throw in a used motor or kswap. I'm a bit of a sucker for originality so I would want to fix my engine.

I've searched through the forum, and I can't find any other examples of oil burning with the same symptoms I have. Most seem to be oil use in VTEC, but mine is the opposite. Given it started after those parts I listed above were installed, I can only assume that it has to be related to that. most likely the AP2 banjo bolts as they literally supply more oil to the cylinder/piston (from my understanding), but I've not heard of anyone else having issues after installing them.

Apologies for the essay but I'm kind of stuck. Any advice, pointers or tips would be most appreciated!!!

Cheers,

Christian
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 12:03 AM
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How do all the spark plugs look? That says much about oil consumption at each cylinder.

Did you try an engine cleaner? I am not a fan of them, but some people have good experience with them,

After all i would borrow or buy a endoscope, and look in the inside of each cylinder. Maybe there is some carbon build up or scratches.

BTW sorry for my english.
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 12:26 AM
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Spark plugs looked OK, Cylinder 3 was a little oily but didn't seem to be anything horrible. I forgot to take photos though. I might pull them again next weekend and take some photos.

I have tried Liqui Moly products in the past, MOS2, fuel system cleaner and conditioner and engine resealer. I also used the engine detox and flush before an oil change once.

Good idea with the camera, I might see if i can find a cheap one on ebay or something!
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 02:59 AM
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Can you tell us some more info on the catch can setup, preferably with some pictures.
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 03:42 AM
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Hey Flanders, catch can setup is just the standard Cusco product. PCV > catch can > intake manifold.


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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 03:48 AM
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Does it catch a lot of oil?
I would maybe try and have it open to atmosphere (cap the intake manifold) and see if it changes anything.
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by flanders
Does it catch a lot of oil?
I would maybe try and have it open to atmosphere (cap the intake manifold) and see if it changes anything.
Nope absolutely nothing in there on the street, on track it might fill 1/3 the way up after about 40 mins track time across 4 sessions.

The catch can was installed after it started smoking/using excessive oil so I don't think it would be related to that?
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 05:30 AM
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New PCV valve has cured this in several cars. Its about $25.

-- Chuck
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Chuck S
New PCV valve has cured this in several cars. Its about $25.

-- Chuck
Yep, I read that early on and changed it. Made no difference
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by xtian
Nope absolutely nothing in there on the street, on track it might fill 1/3 the way up after about 40 mins track time across 4 sessions.

The catch can was installed after it started smoking/using excessive oil so I don't think it would be related to that?
Oh I thought it started after the catch can, no probably not related then.
What kind of oil have you been using before and after the problem?
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