ok, quick back story; my battery went dead a few days ago, so i figure i might as well move the battery to the trunk (was going to do this anyways, because i will be running the lovefab kit). So I moved the battery to the trunk (new odessey/hawker battery PC680T). the alarm worked, then i went to start the car. I turned the key to on, then hit the start button. as soon as i hit the start button, i heard a loud pop (sounded like a blown fuse) and EVERYTHING went out. NOTHING works, no lights, nothing. I'm still in the process of checking all of the fuses (I just got home from work/chem exam). Does anyone have any other ideas incase its not just a blown fuse somewhere (battery fuse is not blown, that is the only one i had time to check so far). Thanks for the help.


Kyle Ritchie

 

update, still no luck, there are no blown fuses in the underhood fuse box. im going to try and use a different battery from my friends car. if that doesnt work, im going to check the under dash fuses. if that fails, does anyone have any other ideas??

Kyle Ritchie

 

no blown fuses, no loose connections, battery works fine (i put it in my friends car)......could the ECU be toast? I'm out of ideas.


Kyle Ritchie

 

It sounds as though you have a massage short (loud pop). You might want to closely examine your relocation kit - from the beginning to the end.
Fuses may not be the only thing to check. There may be breakers involved as well. Have you checked all the large fuses in the engine bay in those black boxes? There are lots of large breakers, fuses and possibly some fusable links in there as well.
Backtrack and disconnect the relocation kit and put the battery back to where it was. If nothing works still, you've got something blown.

 

viper, which are "breakers"?. There are only a few fuses in the under the hood fuse box (located right on the passenger side strut tower). None of them where blown (first one i checked was the "battery" fuse. how do you check to see if the breakers are functional? Thanks,

Kyle Ritchie

 

Sorry for throwing so many terms at you before checking the Helm manual and the car itself. I'm thinking about the wiring on a firetruck.

Disconnect the battery for now just to be safe.
Concentrate on the large fuses (or fusable links) in that black box by the battery. A visual inspection may not reveal a fault. You need to take them out one at a time and do a continuity test on them. IE, check with a multimeter set on "continuity" to make sure that current flows through each fuse. The first ones you need to check are the two biggest ones in that box. The main 100A one and the 40A one. Then work you way around to all the fuses in that box.
I'm guessing that your relays are OK but with a huge short like that, I'm not sure how sturdy those relays are. You can't do much about these for now anyway.

 

so the under the hood fuse box should be the first place to check for discontinuity. is this the ONLY place where if something is wrong, NOTHING will work? thanks.

Kyle Ritchie

 

Well, you should begin there. The electrical system is more complex than even I can imagaine.

 

the electrical system is very complicated, but there are very few connections that would actually cause EVERYTHING to not work (I know this makes me look bad because I still can't find the problem ) I'll keep you guys updated. In the mean time, let me know if you guys can think of anything else. I'm pulling the underhood fuse box right now to check EVERY connection.

Kyle Ritchie

 

Sounds like you hooked up the battery backwards. Check the main 100A battery fuse in the under hood fuse box. There is a clear "window" in the center of the fuse, if you can see open space, it's blown. If there is a visible wire conductor, it's fine.