I just bought all the tools to tighten my axel nuts. A nice 24" breaker bar comes in real handy.

 

probably gonna order a new hub and bearing. the car sounds much better than before, but there are still some very, very, very faint squeals. i really dont want to do this, but i might just bring it to the dealer, really dont have too many tools. does anyone know what they might charge for this job, yeah, i know, its probably expensive as s%#t.

 

You shouldn't have to replace the hub, just a new bearing. The bearings shouldn't cost that much. The knuckle needs to be removed from the car and the old bearing pressed out, new one pressed in. An hour per side maybe.

 

okay, just ordered 2 new bearings and 2 new axle nuts. figured i'd take care of both sides at the same time. still not sure if i'm gonna have the dealer do it, waiting for them to call me back with an estimate...

 

dealer just called me, 276 per side....ugh, what a rip off, may have to take it in the behind though

 

The dealer goes by "book" prices for such jobs. You might be better to go a recommended garage in your area. Just make sure they don't use a "pickle fork" on an impact gun to pop the balljoints. Or remove the hub yourself and take it to place to have them do just the bearings.

 

When I pressed out both hubs the bearing came apart in 2 sections and was stuck to both, so you will likely need new hubs.

 

The hubs are $100-120 some odd each. The shops have a tool for yanking that stuck race off. I was going to weld a bead around the edge of the race with a mig welder to give my bearing press something to hold onto but, was actually able to hook a gear splitter under the edge.

Inspect the hubs. If they look at all gouged up where the bearing sits, replace them. That's a common problem when you wait too long on all Honda's with this type of hub arrangement. The bearing races can spin on the hub and ruin them.

Many shops have special tools for replacing the bearing without removing the hub too. I don't do it often enough to justify buying one. They aren't cheap.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheel_bearing...sealed_bearings

 

if it was the wheel bearing your wheel would of been REALLY hot from driving it. i think it was just your brake pad warning squeal indicator. IIRC the sqealer is on the inside pad.

take off the rotor and see if your pads need replacing. wheel bearings usually make a grinding sound when they fail, not a squeaking sound